Monument to the Victims of Political Repressions - Metaphysical Sphinxes

Voskresenskaya Embankment, 12a, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191123

Before us is the face of an era – alive and dead. D. S. Likhachev

The Monument to the Victims of Political Repressions in Saint Petersburg is dedicated to the millions of people who suffered from state terror in the USSR. It is located in front of the descent to the water on the Voskresenskaya Embankment of the Neva River, separating it from the legendary “Kresty” prison, where many political prisoners were held. The central element of the monument is the majestic and tragic sculpture by Shemyakin – his “metaphysical sphinxes” with beautiful and terrifying half-faces of young women. Created in the Art Nouveau style, they have a distinctive feature — their faces are divided vertically into two halves. Facing the residential buildings on the embankment, the sphinxes show the profiles of youthful female faces, while towards the “Kresty” prison on the opposite bank, they reveal frightening faces corroded by the decay of death, symbolizing terror. This symbolizes the tragic division of the people during the Soviet years. Around the plinths of the sculptures are plaques with texts dedicated to Soviet repressions, written by famous writers and dissidents. Between the sphinxes is a structure made of granite blocks in the shape of an early Christian cross with a prison window and a crown of thorns made of barbed wire.

The verses written in 1916 by Mandelstam, who perished in the Gulag in 1938, sound like a chilling prophecy:

In the vast room, the heavy Neva
And blue blood flows from granite.

“I was struck by their appearance,” said Likhachyov at the monument’s unveiling, “each sphinx on Robespierre Embankment has a face half human, half death. And this is a reminder of the countless victims whose groans were never heard.”

I would like to name them all,
But the lists were taken away, and there is nowhere to find out.

Anna Akhmatova

Shemyakin’s choice of sphinx sculptures was determined not only by the desire to immortalize the memory of innocent victims but also by his method of metaphysical transformation, in this case of the great heritage of Egypt. The frozen faces of pharaohs, majestic in solemn calm and immortal grandeur, flank the descent to the Neva near the Academy of Arts and served as the basis for creating the modern sphinxes. They form a striking dissonance with the faces of death and the inscriptions on the pedestals dedicated to the memory of known and unknown citizens who perished in Soviet prisons.

The central element of the monument to the victims of political repressions is a pair of mirror-symmetrical bronze sculptures of “metaphysical sphinxes,” created by artist Mikhail Shemyakin. They represent somewhat deformed figures of the legendary monsters of the Ancient World, having the body of a lion and the head and chest of a woman. The sphinxes lie on two granite pedestals with their heads raised. Their bodies are thin, ribs visible on the animal torsos, their slender necks exaggeratedly and anxiously stretched, and below, at the junction of the lion and human parts, are expressive female breasts. The heads of the sphinxes are crowned with stylized ancient Egyptian nemes headdresses and pschent crowns. The main feature of Shemyakin’s monsters is their faces: they are divided vertically into two halves. Facing the residential buildings on the embankment, the sphinxes show profiles of young female faces, while towards the Neva and the “Kresty” prison on the opposite bank, they reveal exposed skulls. Thus, one side is perceived as alive, beautiful, with sensually rising ribs, and the other as dead, decaying, with bones of the skeleton visible through the corpse’s body.

Mikhail Shemyakin described the symbolic meaning of the sculptures as follows: “…The faces of the sphinxes embody the cruel regime… This reflects the life of the country — one half lived in ignorance, the others died, unknown for what.” As critic Tatyana Voltskaya noted, “the two-faced images symbolize life and death, freedom and slavery, as well as the duality of human nature, capable both of rising to spiritual heights and descending to mass murders and the destruction of entire peoples.” Poet and critic Viktor Krivulin remarked that the sphinxes represent “the boundary between the living and the dead.” Philologist and art historian Dmitry Likhachyov saw in the sculptures “the face of an era,” whose dead side symbolizes repressions and their victims, and the living side — secret resistance to them, courage, and hopes of Soviet dissidents. He interpreted the pairing of figures as a symbol of the split in Russian society, civil confrontation and war, the division of Rus’ into “ordinary” and “oprichnina.” Mikhail Shemyakin, who often addressed the theme of a “cosmically all-encompassing masquerade” and the mask of death as its central component in his work, according to Viktor Krivulin, brought into the monument “elements of a kind of new tragic travesty and seemingly exposed the bloody-carnival basis of the very idea of tyrannical power, the subconscious nature of dictatorship, which put most of Russia on the edge of life and death.” Art historian Mikhail Zolotonosov noted the plastic expressiveness and meaningfulness of the sphinx sculptures, seeing in them “the concept of death, lustfully and greedily attacking man, longing for him, full of eternal thirst for life.” Researcher Alexander Etkind noted that the anthropo-zoomorphic images of Shemyakin’s sphinxes are a rare example of an attempt to concretize the image in the poor Russian iconography of monuments to victims of political repressions. At the same time, he considered that this monument is a metaphor of passive suffering, inability to resist evil and terror, which seem inevitable when looking at the monsters, like death itself, and that it is very generalized and does not provide an understanding of the specific history of repressions: resistance, camp uprisings, torture, cruelty, violence, ideological background, and so on.

The “metaphysical sphinxes” are reinterpreted images of their ancient Egyptian Theban counterparts, installed on the University Embankment in Saint Petersburg. In Ancient Egypt, such sculptures were part of the cult of the king-pharaoh, who was revered as a god and possessed unlimited power. At the same time, they were attributed mystical protective functions. Art historians see in the image of the sphinx a parallel with Soviet Russia with its totalitarian dictatorship, personality cults of Lenin (including the pyramid with the mummy and the proclamation of him as “eternally alive”), Stalin and Brezhnev, mass slave labor, and repressions.

At the same time, Shemyakin’s sphinx iconography also includes the classical interpretation. According to Ancient Greek myths, the monster in the form of a half-woman, half-lion was sent by the gods as punishment to the inhabitants of Thebes in Boeotia. The sphinx ambushed travelers, posed cunning riddles, and killed all who could not solve them. Thus, she destroyed many people. The riddle was solved only by Oedipus, after which the monster, disappointed, threw herself off a cliff, and the hero became king of Thebes but opened the way to his tragic fate. The classical image of the sphinx, inherited by modern art, found its reflection in the work of Alexander Blok. In the poem “The Scythians,” written after the communist revolution, the poet proclaims:

Russia is a Sphinx! Rejoicing and mourning,

And shedding black blood,

She looks, looks, looks at you

With both hatred and love!..”

Through the prism of this iconography, critics see in Shemyakin’s sphinxes a metaphor of a state that destroys people.

Art historian Dmitry Likhachyov characterized Shemyakin’s sphinxes as a continuation of the “road of sphinxes” on the banks of the Neva in Saint Petersburg. In his opinion, it begins with the sphinxes on the University Embankment, located opposite Senate Square, where the Decembrist Uprising took place in 1825, which became a harbinger of the future collapse of the empire. The chain continues with the Chinese Shi-tzu statues placed near the last Romanov palace after the defeat in the Russo-Japanese War and the 1905–1907 Revolution (these events were the prelude to the communist revolution). The third pair is located on Kamenny Island, near buildings serving the Soviet party elite, marking the tragedy of Soviet Russia. Shemyakin’s sphinxes, dedicated to the victims of repressions and installed opposite the dreadful “Kresty” prison, close this tragic path. According to Likhachyov, the monument “both represents its era and comprehends it in a historical perspective.”

The sphinx figures are life-sized. The height of the sculpture is 1.5 meters, and the dimensions of its pedestal are 2.3 × 0.8 × 1.8 meters. According to Viktor Krivulin, this figure size, which somewhat does not correspond to the scale of the embankment, was a deliberate gesture rejecting megalomania and gigantomania in favor of humanizing the monument’s image.

The architectural design of the monument was done by Vyacheslav Bukhaev and Anatoly Vasilyev. The memorial is located in front of the descent to the water on the Voskresenskaya Embankment of the Neva. The sculptures on the pedestals stand slightly away from its granite parapet. The distance between the sphinxes facing each other is fifteen meters. In the middle of the embankment parapet is a structure made of four granite blocks, arranged to form the shape of an early Christian cross with a small hole in the center. This stylized prison window is covered by a grille in the form of a thin iron cross. Through it, the viewer’s gaze focuses on the “Kresty” prison located on the opposite bank of the Neva. The upper block bears the inscription: “To the victims of political repressions.” A wreath of barbed wire, a kind of crown of thorns, is attached to the lower block. A fifth block is placed against the parapet below it, on which lies a closed book (either the Soviet Criminal Code or a list of victims). Critics perceive this structure as a kind of allegory of prison and faith. Between the sphinxes and the embankment, a cross made of cobblestones is laid out, oriented with its ends toward the three elements of the monument’s composition. The number of stones corresponds, according to the authors’ idea, to the number of repressed people in the USSR — each stone represents 10,000 victims. Researcher Alexander Etkind notes that the symbolism of the cross is one of the most frequently encountered in the iconography of monuments to victims of political repressions in Russia: such a language allows expressing grief for the dead (although it does not reveal the circumstances of death and crimes).

The location of the monument has important symbolic significance. Directly opposite it, across the Neva, opens a large panorama of the red-brick buildings of the “Kresty” prison complex. It naturally becomes part of the memorial’s composition as a background and another very expressive symbol of repressions. The “Kresty” prison became legendary due to the numerous political prisoners held there during Soviet times. It is described in Anna Akhmatova’s poem “Requiem,” dedicated to Stalinist repressions. Also nearby (Liteyny Prospekt, 4) is the “Big House,” built in the early 1930s as the residence of the authorities responsible for terror, the NKVD-KGB (now occupied by their successor, the FSB). Political prisoners were tortured and killed there. According to urban legend, the blood of those killed in the basements of this building flowed through sewer pipes into the Neva, coloring the river water red. In the late 1980s, a large amount of information about political repressions became public, but the burial sites of their victims remained a secret. For this reason, starting in 1988, citizens began to release flowers into the water from the pier at the intersection of Chernyshevsky Prospekt, located between the “Big House” and the “Kresty” prison, on the first Saturday of June in memory of the killed whose graves are unknown.

Across the street from the monument, in the square between houses 12 and 14 on the embankment, stands the Anna Akhmatova monument, opened in 2006. Created according to the poetess’s “literary will” given in “Requiem,” it is a kind of continuation of the memorial to the victims of political repressions.

The embankment on which it stands was once named after Robespierre, which can be seen as a reference to the history of state terror of another revolution — the Great French Revolution.

Around the bronze plinths of Shemyakin’s sphinxes, a series of copper plaques are attached, engraved with lines from the works of Varlam Shalamov, Nikolay Gumilyov, Osip Mandelstam, Anna Akhmatova, Nikolay Zabolotsky, Daniil Andreev, Dmitry Likhachyov, Joseph Brodsky, Yuri Galanskov, Alexander Solzhenitsyn, Vladimir Vysotsky, Vladimir Bukovsky, and Andrei Sakharov. These texts form a kind of “anthology” of the monument on the theme of political repressions in the USSR, all created by people who were in one way or another victims of them and fought against them. According to many researchers, literature became the main monument to the history of state terror in Russia. These inscriptions are important because they reveal the semantic content of the memorial.

The texts for the monument were selected by Vyacheslav Bukhaev and Mikhail Yupp. Vladimir Bukovsky himself composed and sent his statement. Mikhail Shemyakin chose excerpts from Brodsky and Vysotsky.

On the eastern (“front”) face are two plaques. One is on the sculpture’s plinth, the other is inset into the granite pedestal:

An unhappy country is one where simple honesty is perceived at best as heroism, at worst as mental illness, for in such a country the earth will not yield bread. Woe to the people whose sense of dignity has dried up, for their children will be born deformed. And if there is not even one in that country to take upon himself the common sin, the wind will never again return to its circles. Vladimir Bukovsky, 1995;

Vladimir Bukovsky was a writer and one of the most famous human rights activists in the USSR. For his activities, he was repeatedly arrested, subjected to punitive psychiatry, and in 1976 was expelled from the country;

… I hope that, overcoming dangers, achieving great development in all areas of life, humanity will be able to preserve the human in man. Andrei Sakharov;

Andrei Sakharov was a famous theoretical physicist and simultaneously an “icon” and mouthpiece of the dissident movement in the USSR. For his criticism of Soviet power, he was repressed, including forced exile from Moscow;

On the southern face of the plinth are five plaques (left to right):

… I would like to name them all,
But the lists were taken away and there is nowhere to find out… And if they clamp my tortured mouth,
With which a hundred million people cry out… Then, because even in blessed death I fear
To forget the rumbling of black Marusya,
To forget how the loathsome one slammed the door
And the old woman howled like a wounded beast. And let the melted snow stream like tears from motionless and bronze eyelids,
And let the prison dove hoot in the distance,
And quietly ships sail along the Neva… Anna Akhmatova, 1935–1940 from “Requiem”;

Anna Akhmatova was one of the leading figures of the Silver Age. In 1921, her first husband Nikolay Gumilyov was executed. Later she herself was repressed, her husband Nikolay Punin and son Lev Gumilyov were repeatedly arrested, which is the subject of the poem “Requiem,” a landmark work about Stalinist terror;

… No! Not to the architects who create palaces under the sun and wind,
Domes and crowns, raising them in the blue horizon —
In the depths of a Russian prison I labor over a mysterious meter
Until the dawn’s edge in my dim-eyed window… Daniil Andreev, 1956 “Through Prison Walls”;

Daniil Andreev was a Soviet writer. In 1947, he was arrested on denunciation for the novel “Night Wanderers.” His wife and friends were also arrested. Andreev was accused of counterrevolutionary activity and plotting to assassinate Stalin. He spent 10 years in prison. During his imprisonment, Andreev created many of his works;

On the eastern face is one plaque:

… Petersburg! I still have addresses
Where I will find the voices of the dead… Osip Mandelstam. December 1930 from the poem “Leningrad”;

Osip Mandelstam was a poet of the Silver Age. In 1934, he was arrested for an anti-Stalin epigram “We live, not feeling the country beneath us” and exiled to Voronezh until 1937. In 1938, he was arrested again and died in custody;

On the northern face are three plaques (left to right):

A plaque with the signature of Raoul Wallenberg;

Raoul Wallenberg was a Swedish diplomat who saved tens of thousands of Hungarian Jews during the Holocaust. After the Soviet army occupied Budapest, he was detained by SMERSH and transferred to Moscow. He presumably died in a Soviet prison in July 1947;

… Therefore, all who drew deeper, experienced more fully — they are already in the grave, they will not tell. No one will ever tell the MAIN thing about these camps… Alexander Solzhenitsyn “The Gulag Archipelago”;

Alexander Solzhenitsyn was a Soviet writer. In 1945, he was arrested for criticizing Stalin. He spent 8 years in prison and was then exiled. He wrote a number of works (including “The Gulag Archipelago”) that became milestones in the history of describing Soviet political repressions, bringing him worldwide fame and the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1970. In 1974, he was arrested and expelled from the country;

All comrades fell asleep, only he alone does not sleep:
He is busy casting the bullet
That will separate me from the earth… Nikolay Gumilyov, 1917;

Nikolay Gumilyov was a poet of the Silver Age. In 1921, he was arrested on suspicion of participating in the “Tagantsev conspiracy” and soon executed.

On the western (“front”) face are two plaques. One is on the sculpture’s plinth, the other is inset into the granite pedestal:

Everything is taken into pipes, valves are closed, at night only they moan and whine that it is necessary… necessary to sprinkle salt on wounds to remember better — let them hurt! Vladimir Vysotsky;

Vladimir Vysotsky was a Soviet poet and actor. In 1968, during the persecution of the Taganka Theater, the authorities launched a campaign to discredit his work. Until 1981, no Soviet publisher released a book with Vysotsky’s texts;

The smell of larch was faint but clear, and no force in the world could drown, suffocate this smell, extinguish this green spring light and color. The faint persistent smell — it was the smell of the dead. On behalf of these dead, the larch dares to breathe, speak, and live. Varlam Shalamov “Kolyma Tales”;

Varlam Shalamov was a Soviet writer. He was close to the “left opposition,” for which he was arrested in 1929 and sentenced to 3 years. In 1937, he was arrested again, sentenced to five years in camps for “anti-Soviet propaganda,” and sent to Kolyma in Sevostlag. In the camp, Shalamov was sentenced to a new term of 9 years. After imprisonment, he created the cycle “Kolyma Tales,” which spread through samizdat and became a cult book about Soviet repressions;

On the southern face of the plinth are five plaques (left to right):

I can repeat what I said before: there is no fear in truth. Truth and fear are incompatible. Dmitry Likhachyov, 1987;

Dmitry Likhachyov was a Soviet philologist and art historian. In 1928, he was arrested on charges of “counterrevolutionary activity” for criticizing Soviet power and sentenced to 5 years. He served his sentence in the Solovki camp. Later, he built an academic career and was a moralist and ethicist;

January passed outside the prison windows, and I heard the singing of prisoners sounding in the brick choir of cells: “One of our brothers is free.”

You still hear the singing of prisoners and the silent footsteps of wardens, you yourself still sing silently: “Farewell, January.”

Turning my face to the window, you still drink warm air by gulps, and I again thoughtfully wander from interrogation to interrogation down the corridor

To that distant land where there is no longer January, February, or March. Joseph Brodsky, 1962;

Joseph Brodsky was a Soviet poet. In 1963, he was criticized by the authorities, then subjected to punitive psychiatry, arrested, convicted of “parasitism,” and sentenced to exile. In 1972, he was expelled from the country. In 1987, he received the Nobel Prize in Literature;

On the eastern face is one plaque:

… You can win this battle, but you will still lose this war. The war for democracy and Russia, the war that has already begun and in which justice will inevitably prevail… Yuri Galanskov, 1966;

Yuri Galanskov was a Soviet poet and dissident. In 1967, he was sentenced to 7 years for his activities. In 1972, he died in custody;

On the northern face are three plaques (left to right):

A plaque with holes stylized as bullet holes;

… There they went in their greatcoats — two unfortunate old Russian men, remembering their native huts and yearning for them from afar… no longer will their guards chase them, no longer will the camp convoy catch them, only the constellations of Magadan will sparkle, hanging over their heads… Nikolay Zabolotsky, 1947–1948;

Nikolay Zabolotsky was a Soviet poet. In 1938, he was arrested and then sentenced for “anti-Soviet propaganda,” spending 5 years in prison. His poem dedicated to the camps “Somewhere in the field near Magadan…” became widely known.

At the base of the eastern sphinx’s pedestal on the northern side is a plaque with the text: “Mikhail Shemyakin: Monument to the Victims of Political Repressions, installed 1995, Architects Vyacheslav Bukhaev, Anatoly Vasilyev.” This inscription is repeated in English. Mirrored in the same place on the western sphinx are two plaques: “Sculptor: Mikhail Shemyakin Architect: Vyacheslav Bukhaev Architect: Anatoly Vasilyev” and “JSC ‘Vozrozhdenie’.”

Critics highlight the monument on Voskresenskaya Embankment as one of the most famous and significant memorials to victims of political repressions in Russia, alongside the Solovki Stones in Moscow and Saint Petersburg, the Mask of Sorrow in Magadan, and others.

The idea of creating a monument to the victims of political repressions appeared to Shemyakin long before perestroika. Initially, he wanted to create a large-scale composition of sphinxes five meters high surrounded by allegorical figures embodying, for example, the poet Alexander Blok and the simple-minded “man with a rifle” Nikolay Pogodin. But in the end, the artist abandoned this project. The “metaphysical sphinx” sculptures installed on the embankment were created by Shemyakin as early as 1992, as evidenced by the dates engraved on their plinths. Initially, they were dedicated to the Old Testament theme of the enslavement of the Jews in Egypt, and the plinths bore Stars of David. Later, these sculptures formed the basis of the monument to the victims of repressions, with the stars at the base covered by the “anthology” plaques.

The initiative to create this memorial came from Mikhail Shemyakin and city authorities, particularly the governor of Saint Petersburg Anatoly Sobchak. At the same time, the financial costs of creating and installing the monument were borne by the sculptor himself and business representatives. The monument was solemnly unveiled on April 28, 1995. At the opening ceremony, Governor Anatoly Sobchak, public figures Dmitry Likhachyov and Veniamin Ioffe spoke. The monument was also consecrated by an Orthodox priest.

From the very beginning, the creation of the monument sparked much controversy and criticism. City authorities were accused of arbitrariness, voluntarism, and favoritism in choosing the project and its author. Critics pointed out that the monument was created hastily, solely at the will of officials, bypassing the artistic council, open competition, and public discussion, including organizations of former political prisoners and the commission for restoring the rights of rehabilitated victims of repressions. Public activists reproached the authorities for refusing to implement a similar public project on Trinity Square. Critics spoke of the ambiguity and obscurity of the created image. Many wrote that the sphinxes embody “angels of death,” that they are more a monument to executioners and the authorities themselves than to the victims of repressions. Journalists also noted that the sphinxes, initially created as independent works of art, do not reveal the theme of the monument. The artist was accused of exploiting an important theme. Critics wrote about low artistic value, unsuccessful composition, scale, and location of the monument. There were even loud accusations that the cross in the middle of the composition was allegedly Catholic. The city’s chief architect almost disrupted the monument’s unveiling, pointing to allegedly poor granite finishing of the pedestals. A separate scandal arose because public organizations of former political prisoners were initially not invited to the opening ceremony.

The monument has repeatedly been subjected to vandalism and desecration. In the first days, some plaques were stolen from the sphinxes’ plinths. Later, vandals stole the wreath and then the bronze rose attached to the cross-shaped structure. Journalist Alexander Nevzorov smeared the sphinxes with white paint for his scandalous TV program. In April 2001, on Hitler’s birthday, the monument suffered significant damage: vandals knocked down the central part from the granite parapet of the embankment. Then the city governor Valentina Matviyenko allocated funds for the memorial’s repair. At the same time, the central part underwent some changes: a “crown of thorns” (instead of the lost rose), a dedicatory inscription, and a pedestal with a book appeared on it. In early 2015, the pedestal with the book was overturned, and the cobblestones were damaged. Specialists considered the communal services responsible for the incident, having accidentally damaged the monument during snow removal. In summer, the granite book was broken off and stolen from the central part of the memorial. In these cases, a major problem in reconstructing the monument was that it was never transferred to the city’s balance sheet, but in the end, it was repaired. In 2020, the theft of the book was repeated, but it was quickly restored.

Traditionally, on the day of remembrance of victims of political repressions, flowers are laid at the memorial. However, unlike the Solovki Stone on Trinity Square, the monument on Voskresenskaya Embankment rarely becomes the center of any actions.

Sources:

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monument_to_the_Victims_of_Political_Repressions_(Saint_Petersburg)

https://institutspb.ru/pdf/hearings/06-05_Godlevskaya.pdf

https://kudago.com/spb/place/pamyatnik-zhertvam-politicheskih-repressij-spb/

http://www.hellopiter.ru/Monument_to_victims_of_political_reprisals_photo.html

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Sphinxes of the Stroganov Palace

Nevsky Ave., 17, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191186

The very first sphinxes to appear in St. Petersburg were two sphinxes, over a meter long, made by an unknown Russian sculptor at the end of the 18th century from pink granite, now solemnly lying on low pedestals in the courtyard of the Stroganov Palace.

Sphinxes of the Mining Institute

Vasilyevsky Island, 21st Line, V.O., Building 2, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199106

In the courtyard of the Mining Institute, located on Vasilievsky Island, among the greenery of an old garden, two small black sculptures with noble and expressive female faces appeared in 1826. Dressed in light lace shawls, dark-skinned, with diadems on their heads, they resemble ancient Greek young beauties.

Monument to Alexander Dmitrievich Lanskoy or Marble Pedestal in Honor of Virtue and Merits

Catherine Park / Ekaterininsky Park, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196603

Monument to Alexander Dmitrievich Lansky ("Marble Pedestal in Honor of Virtue and Merit") — a monument in the Catherine Park of Tsarskoye Selo, dedicated to the memory of Catherine II's favorite, A. D. Lansky. It was presumably constructed according to a design by the Italian architect A. Rinaldi in 1773 as an abstract architectural allegory of "virtues and merits," not associated with any specific person or event. It became a monument to Lansky after his death in 1784.

Moreyskaya Column

Devil's Bridge, Catherine Park, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196609

The Morea Column is a monument in the Catherine Park of Tsarskoye Selo, erected in honor of the victories of Russian troops on the Morea Peninsula (Peloponnese) in 1770 during the First Archipelago Expedition of the Russian fleet in the course of the Russo-Turkish War of 1768–1774. The monument is designed in the neoclassical style and represents a rostral column made of marble. It was constructed according to the project of the Italian architect Antonio Rinaldi in 1771.

An old weather station with a clock

Malaya Konyushennaya St., 5, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191186

The Weather Pavilion is a historic meteorological pavilion located in the center of Saint Petersburg. It is also known as the meteorological pavilion, has now been restored, and is a city landmark.

Mosaic Courtyard

2 Tchaikovsky Street, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191187

The mosaic courtyard in Saint Petersburg owes its existence to Vladimir Lubenko – an honored artist of Russia. Everything in the courtyard was created by his hands over a quarter of a century.

Emerald City

6a Pravdy St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191119

If you enter the courtyards through the "right arch," you will immediately notice a beautiful path paved with "yellow bricks," just like in the book. Then you will notice the wall of one of the courtyards with a bas-relief of Willina, the good witch from the fairy tale, who invites you to go further. Your further journey will fully correspond to the one Ellie and Toto took in the book. You will encounter the Scarecrow and the Tin Woodman, as well as the Cowardly Lion.

Kindergarten "Saint-Germain"

Saint-Germain Garden, Liteyny Ave., 46, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191014

In the inner courtyard of the buildings on Liteyny Prospect, there is a large garden. When you enter it for the first time, it's hard to believe that such an oasis exists just a few meters from the busy street. The garden has been around for more than a century and still holds many interesting artifacts.

Italian Architects in Saint Petersburg - Busts of Four Italian Architects

Manezhnaya Square, 4, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191023

The busts of four Italian architects—Antonio Rinaldi, Carlo Rossi, Giacomo Quarenghi, and Bartolomeo Rastrelli—appeared on Manezhnaya Square in Saint Petersburg in 2003 thanks to sculptors V.E. Gorevoy and architect V.V. Popov. This was a gift from the government of the Italian Republic and the municipality of the city of Milan for the 300th anniversary of Saint Petersburg.

The oldest music record store "Rock-Island"

Kirochnaya St., 8, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191028

The oldest music record store, "Rock-Island," was once the most popular in the city. It also gained fame thanks to the cult film "Brother," whose main character buys a record by the band "Nautilus Pompilius" there. The little shop is located at 8 Kirochnaya Street — near the Annenkirche — and is still in operation today.

Monument to Alfred Nobel - Tree of Life

Pinsky Lane, 1, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197046

The sculptural composition represents a futuristic-fantastic iron tree, whose twisted branches symbolize a peaceful explosion (the invention of dynamite was intended for peaceful purposes – for mining, blasting, and earthworks).

"The Flower of Life" is one of the most sorrowful memorials dedicated to the Siege of Leningrad.

XGWR+7F Vsevolozhsk, Leningrad Oblast, Russia

In the 1960s, a so-called "Green Belt of Glory" was created around St. Petersburg, which includes several dozen different monuments and memorials dedicated to the heroic defense of Leningrad. Today, I will talk about one of the most emotionally harrowing monuments. It is the monument "Flower of Life," located in the Vsevolozhsky District of the Leningrad Region.

Narva Triumphal Gates

Stachek Square, 1, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190020

A 19th-century architectural monument built in the Empire style based on the design by architect Vasily Petrovich Stasov. The gates were erected between 1827 and 1834 in memory of the Patriotic War of 1812 and the foreign campaigns of the Russian army in 1813–1814. The compositional center of Stachek Square (formerly Narvskaya Square) was constructed to replace the old wooden gates designed by Giacomo Quarenghi, which stood on the border of Saint Petersburg near the city’s Narva outpost closer to the Obvodny Canal.

Sculpture "Okhtenko"

Revolyutsii Ave, 8, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 195027

For two hundred years, street vendors and peddlers were an integral part of life in Petersburg. It was the Okhta milkmaids who supplied their products to the wealthy townspeople (and only they could afford milk and dairy products in a big city far from rural settlements in the 18th–19th centuries).

Memorial plaque to Joseph Brodsky

195196, Stakhanovtsev St., 19, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 195196

The idea of installing a monument to Iosif Alexandrovich Brodsky on Malaya Okhta originated among local residents, it is believed, in the late 1990s. However, more than ten years passed before their own "Brodsky point" appeared on the map. The commemorative sign to the outstanding poet was solemnly unveiled near house No. 19 on Stakhanovtsev Street on December 1, 2011.

Monument "Brodsky Has Arrived"

Universitetskaya Embankment, 11, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

The first monument in Russia to a poet, essayist, playwright, translator, and Nobel Prize laureate in Literature was unveiled on November 16, 2005, on Vasilievsky Island, in the courtyard of the Faculty of Philology at Saint Petersburg State University.

Monument "Portrait of Joseph Brodsky" or THIS IS NOT HIM!

Bering Street, 27k6, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199397

Granite Joseph Alexandrovich materialized unexpectedly and suddenly. The sculpture was installed in December 2016. There was no opening ceremony. The monument was unloaded from the trailer of an old "Gazelle" and placed on the ground... It turned out unpoetic.

Monument to the Fox Terrier Glasha or a Discussion about How Dovlatov's Dog Urinated

Zagorodny Prospekt, 15-17, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191002

The well-known semiotician and gender issues specialist M. Zolotonosov criticized the monument to Sergey Dovlatov's dog, Glasha, installed in the square named after the writer. Zolotonosov claims that the dog depicted on the memorial is not a female dog, but a transgender animal. It urinates with its leg raised, which is a prerogative of male dogs.

Monument to Sergey Dovlatov

23 Rubinstein St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191002

On September 3, 2016, on the 75th anniversary, a monument to the writer and journalist Sergey Dovlatov was unveiled. The commemorative composition is in the form of a bronze figure of Sergey Dovlatov, 2.2 meters tall, standing in the doorway of his own apartment. Next to him stands a table with a typewriter, symbolizing the writer's creativity. It is installed on the sidewalk in front of the building at 23 Rubinstein Street, in the house where Dovlatov lived from 1944 to 1975. A memorial plaque was also placed on the left side of the building. The sculptor is architect Vyacheslav Bukhaev. The procedure for installing memorials in St. Petersburg stipulates that at least 30 years must pass since the death of the person being commemorated. However, the governor has the right to sign a document allowing installation as an exception, which was done in this case.

The most scandalous monument to dogs "Kind Dog Gavryusha" or "Monument to the Stray Dog"

13 Pravdy St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191119

The most scandalous monument to dogs in Saint Petersburg turned out to be the "Kind Dog Gavryusha" or the "Monument to the Stray Dog." The monument to the stray dog Gavryusha appeared in the courtyard of a house on Malaya Sadovaya Street in 1999. The idea to install this unusual monument belongs to the Saint Petersburg Guild of Blacksmiths and Artists. The city's residents also call this sculpture the Monument to the Kind Dog or the Monument to Nyusha. The author of the sculpture based it on his own dog, which he took from the street. At first, he named her Gavrosh, but when it turned out she was a girl, he changed the name to Gavryusha.

Porokhovskoye Cemetery, Saint Petersburg

Ryabovskoe Highway, 78, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 195043

In July 1715, by the decree of Peter I, a gunpowder factory was established on the banks of the Okhta and Luppa rivers, which gave its name to the cemetery opened at the Church of Elijah the Prophet, consecrated in 1722. The Porokhovskoye Cemetery is not among the most famous and prestigious, but it has a long history and is quite picturesque. It is located on the northeastern outskirts of Saint Petersburg, in an area with a hilly terrain unusual for our flat city. It is squeezed between Krasina Street and Ryabovsky Highway, with its southern boundary marked by the winding Lubbya (Luppa) River, a left tributary of the Okhta. The cemetery covers an area of about 9 hectares.

Alexandrovsky Gate: former gate of the Okhta Gunpowder Plant in Saint Petersburg.

Building 28e, room 405, Khimikov Street, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 195030

The Alexandrovsky Gate is a former gate of the Okhta Gunpowder Plant in Saint Petersburg. It was built according to the design of Fyodor Ivanovich Demertsov in 1806. It is a monument of classical architecture. It is located on the bank of the Okhta River, in the eastern part of the Bolshoy Ilyinsky Garden, near the Okhta Dam.

Monument to Osip and Nadezhda Mandelstam "Monument to Love"

Universitetskaya Embankment, 7/9, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

In the courtyard of the Twelve Collegia building of St. Petersburg State University, a monument to Osip and Nadezhda Mandelstam has been unveiled. The composition, created by Dutch sculptor Hanneke de Munck, is called "Monument to Love." It is a bronze allegorical bowl about three meters high, from which a tree rises upwards. The poet Osip Mandelstam and his wife, Nadezhda, with whom he was often separated, are reunited, as if floating above this bowl in the air: angel wings are on their backs, and the poet holds sheets of manuscripts in his hands. The pedestal for the Mandelstam couple was made by St. Petersburg sculptor Khachatur Bely.

An Unusual Lantern Museum in Saint Petersburg

Odessa St., 1, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191124

There is a very small museum that tells about an important historical event in the Northern capital — the transition of street lighting from oil lamps to electric lamps. This museum is located on the short Odesskaya Street (not far from Smolny) and consists of only seven exhibits.

Monument at the site of the execution of the Decembrists

Kronverkskaya Embankment, 3A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197046

Memorial in Saint Petersburg. Located on the crownwork of the Peter and Paul Fortress. The obelisk was erected on the site of the execution of the leaders of the Decembrist uprising in 1975, on the 150th anniversary of the Decembrist uprising.

Hearty Market - a place of food and executions

Sytninskaya Square, 5A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

The first Petersburg market. Originally called the Obzhorny Market, it was located on Troitskaya (now Revolyutsii) Square and burned down in a fire in 1710. It has been at its current location since 1711. On June 27, 1740, A. P. Volynsky and his associates P. M. Eropkin and A. F. Khrushchov were executed on the Sytniy Market square; on December 14, 1861, the civil execution ceremony of the writer and revolutionary M. L. Mikhaylov took place here. The last execution was on September 15, 1764, when V. Ya. Mirovich was executed for attempting to free Ivan Antonovich from the Shlisselburg Fortress and place him on the throne. Until the 1840s, the Sytniy Market occupied not only its current territory but also part of the esplanade of the Kronverk of the Peter and Paul Fortress, including the adjacent area of the modern Maxim Gorky Avenue.

Apraksin Dvor or Aprashka

Apraksin Dvor, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191023

The territory of the modern Apraksin Dvor was formed from two parts, named after their owners — the merchant Ivan Shchukin and Fyodor Apraksin. In the mid-18th century, the merchant Ivan Shchukin purchased a plot by the Fontanka River from Count G. P. Chernyshev and opened trading rows for agricultural products there. This market was called "Shchukin Dvor." In 1744, Fyodor Apraksin was granted a large plot of land between the Fontanka and Sadovaya Street by Empress Elizabeth Petrovna for his diligent service. In 1754, his son Matvey decided to establish a market on the plot — he began building wooden stalls and renting them out. In 1802, Matvey Apraksin received permission to build a "tolkuchiy torg" — a place for free trade. By agreement with the city authorities, police were always on duty there. By the beginning of the 19th century, the market had already become known as "Apraksin Dvor," colloquially called "Aprashka."

New Holland – From Peter I to Abramovich

Admiralteysky Canal Embankment, 2/3, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Two islands in the Admiralteysky District of Saint Petersburg, bordered by the Moika River, Kryukov Canal, and Admiralteysky Canal. The "New Holland" complex was created by Peter I for the needs of the Admiralty and was used by maritime authorities throughout its history. Until recently, it was the most closed-off attraction in Saint Petersburg.

Amazing Architect Rossi Street

2 Zodchego Rossi Street, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191023

Its uniqueness lies in the fact that the development is carried out in exact accordance with ancient canons — the height of the buildings equals the width of the street and is 22 meters, while its length is exactly ten times greater — 220 meters.

Rostral Columns

Birzhevaya Square, 1 building 2, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

One of the symbols of Saint Petersburg is an integral part of the ensemble of the Spit of Vasilievsky Island. Two rostral columns were erected between 1805 and 1810 according to the design of the French architect Thomas de Thomon, who decorated them with ship prows on both sides of Vasilievsky Island.

Fountain "Four Sphinxes" or "Four Witches"

Pulkovskoye Highway, 74, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196140

At the corners of the rectangular pedestal stood sphinxes, which had "the body of a lion and the head and chest of a girl." Many architects believed that "in terms of originality and artistic value, the Tomonovsky fountain with sphinxes near Pulkovo Hill is unparalleled." The sphinxes were also made of granite; earlier they appeared to be bronze, then, when they turned green from dampness and were covered with moss, the locals nicknamed them the "Fountain of Witches" or the "Four Witches." Now they have been cleaned, but the name has stuck.

Portico of the New Hermitage or the Atlantes of the Hermitage

Millionnaya St., 35, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190000

The Portico of the New Hermitage is a porch in the form of a covered gallery located in front of the main entrance to the New Hermitage building in Saint Petersburg, situated on the main (southern) facade of the building facing Millionnaya Street. Until the mid-1920s, this was the museum entrance. The portico is adorned with ten huge figures of atlantes created by sculptor A. I. Terebenev and his assistants, made from gray Serdobol granite, standing on pedestals of rapakivi granite and supporting the architrave. The other elements of the portico — pylons, frieze, and balcony columns — are made from Kirnovsky marbleized limestone. During the 2000 restoration of the building, the Kirnovsky stone was painted over to resemble plaster, resulting in the loss of its natural color and texture.

The Noon Gun at the Peter and Paul Fortress

Peter and Paul Fortress, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191186

“To the cannon! Hand on the trigger! Count – 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 – fire!” For many generations, Petersburgers have synchronized their watches at 12:00 noon with the shot from the Naryshkin Bastion. Interestingly, the crew always loads two cannons, even though only one is fired. Why? The thing is, sometimes there are misfires, old shells are found, and the shot doesn’t go off. That’s why two cannons are kept ready just in case.

The first Soviet nuclear submarine (SSN) K-3 "Leninsky Komsomol"

Island of Forts, Citadel Highway, 14, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197760

Nuclear submarines today are the foundation of the underwater fleets of all nuclear powers. The first Soviet nuclear submarine, K-3 "Leninsky Komsomol," raised the naval flag on July 1, 1958. Three days later, it was the first in the Soviet Union to operate under its main power plant—a nuclear reactor—and four years later, it was the first in the USSR to surface through the ice at the North Pole. In early August 2021, it was announced that the submarine (nuclear-powered submarine) K-3 "Leninsky Komsomol" would depart from the Northern Fleet to Kronstadt—to its permanent berth at the Museum of Naval Glory, where it is currently located.

S-189 — Soviet medium submarine of Project 613

Lieutenant Schmidt Embankment, 36, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

S-189 is a Soviet medium submarine of Project 613, which was part of the Baltic Fleet. After decommissioning, it was converted into a museum ship in Saint Petersburg.

Submarine D-2 "Narodovolets"

Skippersky Lane, 10, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199106

D-2 "Narodovolets" (series I, project D — "Dekabrist", factory No. 178) was a Soviet diesel-electric torpedo submarine from the World War II era. During the war, the "D-2" completed 4 combat patrols, carried out 12 torpedo attacks launching 19 torpedoes, sank one ship (4090 GRT), and damaged one ship (2972 GRT). In terms of length of service, no other submarine in the Soviet and Russian fleets matches this vessel. Various winds caressed her naval flag, and the waves of the Baltic, Barents, and Kara Seas closed over her.

Monument to Catherine II

pl. Ostrovskogo, 1, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191023

The monument to Catherine II in Saint Petersburg is located on Ostrovsky Square, next to the Alexandrinsky Theatre. It was erected in 1873 and is one of the main attractions of the city.

Alliluyev Apartment Museum

10th Sovetskaya St., 17B, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191144

The Alliluyev Apartment Museum was opened in 1997, based on the former Lenin Apartment Museum. S. Ya. Alliluyev was a worker from Saint Petersburg who participated in the revolutionary events of 1917. His political activity was connected with some of the most important historical figures: V. I. Lenin, I. V. Stalin, G. K. Ordzhonikidze, and many others. The apartment in the former tenement house is famous because in 1917 V. I. Lenin and G. E. Zinoviev hid here from persecution. In the autumn of the same year, I. V. Stalin lived here. Alliluyev’s youngest daughter, Nadezhda, later became his wife.

Horse heads at Kolomenskaya 45

Volokolamsky Lane, 9, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191119

Walking along Kolomenskaya Street past the corner two-story house No. 45, from the wall of which two horse heads emerge. These two unusual sculptures were cast in the second half of the 19th century and today are among the few surviving artifacts of the Yamskaya part — the carriage drivers' station of pre-revolutionary Petersburg.

The Bulls of Demut-Malinovsky or the Story of "Vzorushka" and "Nevzorushka"

Obvodny Canal Embankment, 102, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196084

These are two famous bronze sculptures created by the outstanding Russian master Vasily Demut-Malinovsky in 1827. The statues are considered masterpieces of animalistic sculpture. Among the public and specialists, the sculptures are known as Vzorushka (left) and Nevzorushka (right).