Derbent: One of the oldest "living" cities in the world

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Derbent (from the Persian Derbend — "closed (bound) gates," Azerbaijani Dərbənd — "narrow gates") is located where the mountains of the Greater Caucasus come closest to the Caspian Sea, leaving only a narrow three-kilometer strip of plain; by closing it off, the city formed the so-called Caspian or Derbent Pass. The role of Derbent and the Derbent Pass in the formation of the Great Silk Road was significant, as it was situated in one of the most strategically important and topographically convenient locations of the famous Trans-Caspian route, connecting Eastern Europe and the Near East. Derbent is one of the oldest "living" cities in the world and the southernmost city of the Russian Federation. Archaeological excavations have determined its age to be over 5,000 years. The first settlements appeared here in the Early Bronze Age — in the 4th millennium BCE. The first mention of the Caspian Gates, one of the ancient names of Derbent, dates back to the 6th century BCE, cited by the ancient Greek geographer Hecataeus of Miletus. Chares of Mytilene, who described events of the 8th–7th centuries BCE, writes about a fortress that existed here from the 4th century BCE. The ancient Greek historian Herodotus was among the first to provide information about the Caspian Pass in the 5th century BCE. The strategic importance of the Caspian Pass attracted many nomadic steppe tribes — Scythians, Sarmatians, Mongols, Alans, and others. Here lay one of the most important sections of the Great Silk Road, as a crossroads of civilizations connecting East and West, North and South, via several maritime and overland routes. One of the Great Silk Road routes passed through Derbent. The Seleucid Empire also showed great interest in the city; its first expedition was organized under Seleucus I in 290–281 BCE. In 66–65 BCE, military campaigns by Lucullus and Pompey took place in the Caucasus, with one of their main objectives being the capture of Derbent. Throughout its history, the fortress on the Caspian was alternately controlled by Albanians, Persians, Arabs, and Russians. The keys to the city of Derbent were presented to the Russian Emperor Peter I during the Persian campaign, also known as Peter I's Lezgin campaign in Persia. It was only in 1813 that Derbent was finally annexed to the Russian Empire. According to several authors, an important fact in Derbent's history, as part of Caucasian Albania, was the adoption of Christianity in 313 CE, making it the northern outpost of this state and the main Christian stronghold against Zoroastrianism and other forms of paganism. From the 5th century CE, the city began to actively develop, along with fortification construction aimed at protecting the Near East from a new wave of various nomadic steppe tribes. Between 439 and 457 CE, fortifications were built by Yazdegerd I on the foundations of the former fortress laid by the local population of Albanian origin. Between 488 and 531 CE, the mudbrick walls were replaced with stone masonry by Khosrow I Anushirvan, who, according to legend, built these fortress walls extending over 60 kilometers (some fragments of these walls have survived to this day). The fortress began to take on the appearance that has been preserved to the present time. From the fortress, located at the foot of the mountain range, two walls descended to the sea, blocking the Caspian Pass, designed to protect the city and the trade route. A new stage in the development of Derbent is associated with the Arab invasion in the 7th century CE; however, they were able to firmly establish control only under Maslama ibn Abd al-Malik in 733–734 CE. With the Arab conquest of Derbent, the city became the main stronghold of the Caliphate in the Caucasus, an important military, political, and ideological center. Derbent became the largest medieval port city, a crucial center of international transit trade between East and West, North and South, with developed crafts (pottery, glassmaking, metalworking, jewelry, stone carving and construction, weaving, carpet making, paper production, silk, soap) and agriculture (farming, gardening, cultivation of saffron, madder, cotton, flax, etc.). Trade caravans and ships arrived here from Khorasan, Khwarezm, India, China, Rus, Volga Bulgaria, and others. A monumental witness to the era of the great migration of peoples, one of the main strongholds of the Great Silk Road, and an outstanding monument of defensive architecture, the Derbent fortress complex served defensive functions for 1,500 years. It includes the Naryn-Kala fortress, to which lead two long city walls that completely blocked the pass and extended far into the sea, forming a port. In 2003, UNESCO recognized the old part of Derbent as a World Heritage Site.

The southern wall of the Derbent fortress

5th Nagorny Lane, 7, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The construction of the existing stone walls of the Derbent Fortress is dated to the 6th century AD. This dating is based on Arabic written sources from the 9th-10th centuries. Arabic authors associate the construction of the city of Derbent with the name of the king of Sasanian Persia, Khosrow I Anushirvan (531–579 AD). Furthermore, the reports of the Arabic authors are supported by Pahlavi construction inscriptions located on the northern wall.

Bayat-Kapy — the second gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the southern wall of Derbent

Orta-Kapy Street, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Bayat-Kapy are the second gates from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the southern city wall. According to Arab authors of the 9th-10th centuries, the Kala-Kapy gates did not exist before, and the Bayat-Kapy gates were the first of the three gates on the southern wall from the Naryn-Kala citadel.

Gates of the South Wall of Derbent — Kala-kapy (Fortress Gates)

5th Nagorny Lane, 7, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Gates of the South Wall — Kala-kapy (Fortress Gates) (from the Arabic "kala" — fortress, citadel) are the uppermost first gates from the citadel on the southern city wall. Unlike other gates, they do not lead into the city but directly to the entrance of the citadel. Therefore, there is another name for these gates — Khan-kapy (Turkic Khan's Gates, Gates of the Khan). The gate opening probably appeared when the city was under Turkish control, during the period of intensified conflict between Derbent and Shirvan.

The Kiyamat-Kapy Gate (Gate of Judgment Day) of the Derbent Fortress

3 Internatsionala St., Building 4A, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The "Kiyamat-Kapy" Gate (the Gate of Judgment Day) was discovered and excavated by archaeologists in 2002-2004. It is an arch in the northern fortress wall of Derbent, located within Nizami Park. The excavations revealed a complex presumably of ritual significance. During the studies, it was established that ritual ceremonies involving hammering nails into the wall and offering copper coins to make wishes were performed here.

Guardhouse in Naryn Kala

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The guardhouse, along with the infirmary and warehouses, was built in 1827 to accommodate and serve the needs of the Russian garrison soldiers. The construction inevitably reflected the characteristic features of the Empire style, which was dominant in Russian architecture at the time.

The main gates of the Naryn-Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The eastern gates of the Naryn-Kala citadel (called Bab-el-Alkama by the Arabs) are its main gates, actually built into the retaining wall and covered with pointed arches and slabs forming the base of the rooms of Fatali Khan's khan's office (18th century).

Dag-gates - the gates of shame of the fortress Naryn Kala

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Among the people, they were called the mountain gates, secret gates, spare gates, and even the gates of fugitives or shame. The fact is that one of the rulers of Derbent retreated through these gates during a battle, surrendering the city to the enemy. Because of this, these gates were not used even in peacetime, as exiting through them was considered disgraceful. When Peter I inspected the fortress in 1722 and was told the story of these gates, the emperor decided to go out through them no matter what. He was once again told that it was inappropriate. However, Peter I, saying, "What do I, the Russian tsar, care about Muslim shame," still went out through them, thereby lessening the degree of disgrace.

Dash-gates (Stone Gates or Gates of Stone) — the third gates from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the northern wall of Derbent

Gagarin St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Dash-gates (from Turkic. Stone gates or Gates of stone) are the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the northern wall. They led to the quarries, from where the inhabitants took building material. Hence the name of the gates.

Maiden's Bath in the old part of Derbent

22 Agasieva Ave, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368608

The museum complex "Maiden's Bath" is located in the old part of Derbent, near the oldest mosque in Russia, the Juma Mosque. The vaulted baths are one of the attractions of Derbent. This is a traditional type of structure for the East. Such baths played a significant role in a Muslim city, being an integral part of its social life, just like mosques and bazaars. The bathhouse in the Caucasus, as in the East, served not only for cleansing but also for strengthening the body, uplifting the spirit, for rest, friendly, and business conversations.

Derbent Lighthouse

Derbent Lighthouse, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Derbent Lighthouse is the southernmost lighthouse in Russia, located in the Dagestani city of Derbent. It is the same age as the Makhachkala lighthouse: both are over 1.5 centuries old. The lighthouse is included in the list of protected monuments of Russia and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Juma Mosque in Derbent is the oldest mosque on the territory of the former USSR.

7, Magal St., 10, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

According to historical data, in the spring of 732, a huge Arab army led by Maslama ibn Abd al-Malik, whom the local historical chronicle "Derbent-name" and folk legends call Abu Muslim, appeared at the walls of Derbent, which at that time was controlled by the Khazars. As a result of a prolonged siege, Maslama managed to conquer Derbent. He converted the city's population to Islam and began the construction of mosques. Numerous written sources report the construction of the "great congregational mosque" in the 115th year of the Hijri calendar (733/4 AD) by the Arab commander Maslama ibn Abd al-Malik, who conquered Derbent and is called Abu Muslim in the local historical chronicle "Derbend-name" and folk legends. The Juma Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in the world and the oldest mosque in Russia.

Dungeon in the Naryn-Kala Fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The underground prison-dungeon, located in the northeastern part of the Naryn-Kala citadel, is a unique monument of medieval architecture. Its depth is 11 meters, and the internal area is 25 square meters. Light and air penetrated the dungeon through a hole in the stone.

The grave of Esfandiar near the Derbent citadel

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The burial site of the rulers of Derbent — Esfendiyarov is located 35 meters south of the Kala-Kapa gate by the stairs leading to the observation deck.

Naryn-Kala — the citadel of Derbent

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Naryn-Kala is a Persian citadel, part of the Derbent fortress, connected to the Caspian Sea by double walls designed to block the so-called Caspian Gates to the Persian state. In the early Middle Ages, the Persian state was regularly attacked by barbarian nomads.

Orta-kapy (Middle Gates) — the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the southern wall of Derbent

16 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Orta-Kapy (from Turkic, Middle Gates) are the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the southern wall. The gates got their name from the district of the ancient city — "Orta-tepe" (Middle Hill), adjacent to these gates.

Khan's Bath in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent Road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Khan’s Bathhouse is an architectural monument, presumably built in the 16th–17th centuries, located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala fortress in Derbent. “The bathhouse in the Caucasus, as throughout the entire East, is a matter of special care… Because the bathhouse serves not only for washing but also for strengthening the body, lifting a fallen mood, for rest, for meetings and conversations about buying and selling, and for displaying skill in chess and backgammon.”

Khan's Palace - the palace complex of the Naryn Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The most interesting and richly ornamented carved stone palace complex in Derbent is the Khan's Palace in the Naryn-Kala citadel, built in 1768 by Fatali Khan, the most powerful feudal ruler of the Eastern Caucasus. It reached its greatest power in the years 1770–1780, during which the entire citadel was transformed into the Khan's residence.

Ancient Eastern Bathhouse (Women’s)

12 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The women's bathhouse was built in the 15th-17th centuries and is located in the upper part of the city near the "Juma Mosque." The Arabic name is Mesjid Hammam, meaning a bathhouse located by the mosque. It is constructed from rubble masonry, with walls and floors inside made of hewn stone. The structure is partially buried in the ground to reduce heat loss by more than half. It has a classic layout of an Eastern bathhouse with cold and hot sections, covered by domes with a skylight lantern, and numerous auxiliary rooms.

Rectangular underground reservoir of the Naryn Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

A large rectangular underground reservoir served as the main water storage for the defenders of the citadel. Water was supplied through stone underground channels from mountain springs. The rectangular cistern was adjacent to the service yard of the khan's palace.

Dzharchi-kapy (Herald's Gate) — the first gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel in the northern wall

373F+WW Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia

Dzharchi-Kapy (Herald’s Gate) — the first gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel in the northern wall. At these gates, the khan’s herald (from Turkic *Dzharchi*) proclaimed the orders and decrees of the city’s rulers. Arabic written sources from the 9th–10th centuries call these gates Bab al-Muhajir (Gate of the Refugees). According to legend, the Khazars who controlled the city, unable to withstand the siege by the Arab army led by Maslama in 734, secretly left the city through these gates.

Retail space of Derbent

2nd Nagorny Lane, 12, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Derbent has long been known for its trade relations. Almost everywhere in the city, trade was conducted with imported goods as well as products made by local craftsmen and producers. Many of the active markets have been preserved near the fortress walls of the city to this day. One of the historical trading places was the square in the upper part of the city. The residents of the densely populated magals deliberately did not use this area so that trading places would be located directly in the historic part of the city for their convenience.

Northern wall of the Derbent fortress

6 Mamedbekova St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The construction of the existing northern city wall of the Derbent fortress is dated to the 6th century. Its construction is associated with the name of the ruler of Sasanian Persia, Khosrow I Anushirvan (531–579). The northern wall stretches for 3.5 km from the Naryn-Kala citadel along the northeastern slope of the Jalgan Ridge spur eastward to the sea.

The mosque with a minaret is the only ancient minaret in Derbent.

373G+WC Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia

Currently, in Derbent, only one mosque with a minaret has been preserved, which is called the "Mosque with a Minaret" (Minarya-mesdjidi) or the "Minaret Mosque." It is located in the upper (western) part of the city near the Jarchi-Kapa gate and is the oldest mosque in the city.

House of the Decembrist Bestuzhev-Marlinsky

Magal St., 23, Apt. 147, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The house where the Decembrist Alexander Alexandrovich Bestuzhev-Marlinsky lived from 1830 to 1834

Kilisa Mosque (Mosque Church)

pr. Agasieva, 22, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368608

Kilisa Mosque — one of the neighborhood mosques located near the ancient trading center of the city, received its name (kilisa means church) because for some time (in the 19th century) it was used as a garrison church.

Bala Mosque in the upper part of the city of Derbent

18 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Bala Mosque is located in the upper part of the city of Derbent, near the "Orta-kapy" gate. The mosque dates from the 11th to the 19th centuries. It is a neighborhood mosque.

The Kirhlyar Mosque is located south of the Kyrhlyar-Kapa gate.

N. Krupskaya St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The mosque is located to the south of the Kyrkhlyar-Kapa gate, and apparently, the mosque's name originated from its location. The one-story building is rectangular in plan (18 x 10 meters), stretched from west to east. The central part of the building is covered by a pointed stone dome with a diameter of 7 meters.

Ancient Eastern Bathhouse (Men's)

2nd Nagorny Lane, 12, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The ancient men's Eastern bathhouse is located near the Kilis Mosque on the territory of the old market square and is one of the oldest in Derbent. The bathhouse is constructed from well-hewn stone blocks. It has the classic layout of an Eastern hammam – with cold and hot rooms, niches for resting, domed ceilings, and auxiliary rooms.

Dubary-kapy – the fourth from the citadel Naryn-Kala

4 V. Lenin St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Dubary-Kapy are the fourth gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala among the preserved gates on the southern city wall.

Kyrkhlyar Gate (Gate of the Forty) — the second gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the northern city wall

N. Krupskaya St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Kyrkhlyar Gate (from Turkic, Gate of the Magpie) — the second gate from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the northern city wall. The name of the gate comes from the nearby burial site "Kyrkhlyar." Arabic sources call the gate Bab al-Kabir (Great Gate) or Bab al-Jihad (Gate of the Holy War), which is apparently related to the numerous wars in which Muslim troops passed through these gates on military campaigns against the Khazars who had not accepted Islam.