Naryn-Kala — the citadel of Derbent

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Naryn-Kala is a Persian citadel, part of the Derbent fortress, connected to the Caspian Sea by double walls designed to block the so-called Caspian Gates to the Persian state. In the early Middle Ages, the Persian state was regularly attacked by barbarian nomads.

Naryn-Kala is a Persian citadel, part of the Derbent fortress, connected to the Caspian Sea by double walls designed to block the so-called Caspian Gates to the Persian Empire. In the early Middle Ages, the Persian Empire was regularly attacked by barbarian nomads. For this reason, over time, a decision was made to close the Caspian Gates between the sea itself and the spurs belonging to the Jalgansky Ridge. This could only be done by building a huge and powerful wall, which was absolutely impossible to breach with the weapons of that time. The Sasanian masonry is well traced both in the city walls and in the citadel. It consists of facing rows laid out of large stones dry, and rubble masonry on lime mortar. For a stronger connection with the rubble, the facing stones are alternately laid lengthwise and crosswise (sometimes the crosswise stones are doubled), creating a characteristic pattern. The outer surface of the stones is well hewn, while the inner planes are left untreated, which contributed to better adhesion with the rubble. The oldest masonry consists of uniform but not strictly standard stones in shape and size: individual slabs were trimmed to each other during construction. Such a wall construction, besides exceptional strength, imparted monumental immovability and grandeur.


The citadel was built near Derbent and for a long time was inhabited only by guards who protected the entrance around the clock. Later, it turned into an important trade, administrative, and cultural center.

In Middle Persian, the name means "sun fortress." Since the Middle Ages, the Derbent fortress wall was also called Alexander the Great’s wall due to the legend that the great conqueror built it. In reality, Alexander the Great never visited these places.

Naryn-Kala occupies the top of the hill closest to the sea. The path along the shore was blocked by two parallel fortress walls (the Derbent wall), which adjoined the citadel on the west and extended into the sea on the east, preventing the fortress from being bypassed by shallow waters and forming a harbor for ships. Between the walls, spaced 350–450 meters apart, lay the medieval city of Derbent. To the west of the citadel, the Mountain Wall (Dag-bary) stretched for 40 km, designed to prevent bypassing the fortress through mountain valleys and passes. Despite its age, the fortress played a crucial defensive role for centuries. New rulers rebuilt and renovated it, so today, like tree rings, the structure reflects the entire history of Derbent. The irregularly shaped citadel covers an area of 4.5 hectares. Its dimensions are approximately 180 meters wide and 255 meters long; the walls are reinforced with small towers spaced 20–30 meters apart and an artillery tower in the southwest. Additional protection on three sides is provided by the steep slopes of the mountain.

The complex was designed to withstand prolonged sieges. To ensure water supply, underground channels were dug to fill internal reservoirs directly from mountain springs. One such reservoir was a local Christian church, built in the fourth or fifth century but later abandoned, causing it to gradually sink almost entirely underground. Remarkably, this church has survived to this day. It is considered the oldest Christian temple in Russia.

On the vast territory of the fortress operates the Juma Mosque, also considered one of the oldest in Russia, built here in the eighth century. Starting from the fifteenth century, a madrasa was built next to the mosque.

Inside the citadel, baths, a fortress water supply system made of ceramic pipes, and the ruins of the Shah’s palace remain — a large entrance portal and parts of the walls. Opinions about the existence of an early Christian temple from the 4th–5th centuries (the oldest in Russia) here vary. Some experts believe the cross-domed room was a reservoir; others note the absence of a water conduit below and the above-ground (not semi-underground or underground) structure, consider the building’s shape inconvenient for a reservoir, which in Derbent is usually rectangular or square, and also point out the building’s orientation according to the cardinal points. Each wall has three gates, the oldest of which are the Orta-Kany (Middle Gates).

The outer walls, 2.5–3.5 meters thick and reaching heights of 20–25 meters in some sections, make it an impregnable fortress capable of withstanding heavy and prolonged sieges.

Derbent is located at the most strategically vulnerable point of the Caspian passage, where the Greater Caucasus mountains come closest to the sea, leaving only a narrow 3-km strip of plain. The Derbent fortress is part of a grand defensive system that protected the peoples of Transcaucasia and Western Asia from nomadic invasions from the north. The system included city walls, the citadel, sea walls, and the Mountain Wall Dag-bary.

To the west, the Derbent walls adjoin the Naryn-Kala citadel, which was built after the 10th century, since before that, a signal fire was lit here when the enemy approached. The fortress known today was built in the 6th century on the Jalgansky Ridge by order of the Persian ruler Khosrow I Anushirvan ("Immortal Soul") of the Sasanian dynasty. Since 735, Derbent and Naryn-Kala became the military-administrative center of the Arab Caliphate in Dagestan, as well as the largest trading port and a center for the spread of Islam in this land.

The Middle Ages are remembered in the history of Naryn-Kala as the time when the Derbent khans settled here, making the citadel their main residence for some time. In the eighteenth century, khan’s chambers were built here, and a little later — the divan-khan (chancellery), dungeons (prison basements), and several other administrative buildings. Among Russian constructions is the guardhouse, built in the nineteenth century.

As a result of the Caspian campaign, the city of Derbent became part of the Russian Empire. Emperor Peter I moved from a dugout, now a local landmark, to the khan’s palace, to whom the Derbent beys presented the city keys on a silver tray covered with Persian brocade (kept in the Kunstkamera in St. Petersburg) with the words: "Derbent was founded by Alexander the Great, and therefore there is nothing more fitting and just than to hand over a city founded by a great monarch to another monarch no less great than him." During the Russo-Persian War of 1796, the fortress was retaken by Russian troops under the command of General-in-Chief Valerian Zubov, who established his headquarters in the citadel. After the arrival of the Russians, the khan’s palace was significantly rebuilt for military needs and then completely dismantled. In 1827–1828, a guardhouse building in the neoclassical style was constructed and has been preserved. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky, serving then in the Caucasian army, lamented: "The corner room where the great Peter lived in the khan’s house in the Derbent fortress was preserved as it was during his time. The Russians changed everything: they did not spare even the window from which he admired the sea."

After studying the historical and cultural heritage of Derbent, the World Heritage Committee included in July 2003 the "Citadel, Ancient City, and Fortress Structures" in the World Heritage List. These sites still impress with their scale and monumentality.

 The Naryn-Kala fortress is clearly visible from any point in the city. From the west, north, and south, the fortress is surrounded by steep slopes of hills, sometimes descending, sometimes rising. A magnificent panorama also opens from the fortress territory itself, from where the entire city is visible, stretching 3.5 kilometers eastward from the citadel to the seashore.

Sources:

https://derbentmuseum.ru/arhitekturno-arheologicheskij-kompleks-citadel-naryn-kala/

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naryn-Kala

http://bigring.ru/?trID=82

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More stories from Derbent: One of the oldest "living" cities in the world

The southern wall of the Derbent fortress

5th Nagorny Lane, 7, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The construction of the existing stone walls of the Derbent Fortress is dated to the 6th century AD. This dating is based on Arabic written sources from the 9th-10th centuries. Arabic authors associate the construction of the city of Derbent with the name of the king of Sasanian Persia, Khosrow I Anushirvan (531–579 AD). Furthermore, the reports of the Arabic authors are supported by Pahlavi construction inscriptions located on the northern wall.

Bayat-Kapy — the second gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the southern wall of Derbent

Orta-Kapy Street, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Bayat-Kapy are the second gates from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the southern city wall. According to Arab authors of the 9th-10th centuries, the Kala-Kapy gates did not exist before, and the Bayat-Kapy gates were the first of the three gates on the southern wall from the Naryn-Kala citadel.

Gates of the South Wall of Derbent — Kala-kapy (Fortress Gates)

5th Nagorny Lane, 7, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Gates of the South Wall — Kala-kapy (Fortress Gates) (from the Arabic "kala" — fortress, citadel) are the uppermost first gates from the citadel on the southern city wall. Unlike other gates, they do not lead into the city but directly to the entrance of the citadel. Therefore, there is another name for these gates — Khan-kapy (Turkic Khan's Gates, Gates of the Khan). The gate opening probably appeared when the city was under Turkish control, during the period of intensified conflict between Derbent and Shirvan.

The Kiyamat-Kapy Gate (Gate of Judgment Day) of the Derbent Fortress

3 Internatsionala St., Building 4A, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The "Kiyamat-Kapy" Gate (the Gate of Judgment Day) was discovered and excavated by archaeologists in 2002-2004. It is an arch in the northern fortress wall of Derbent, located within Nizami Park. The excavations revealed a complex presumably of ritual significance. During the studies, it was established that ritual ceremonies involving hammering nails into the wall and offering copper coins to make wishes were performed here.

Guardhouse in Naryn Kala

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The guardhouse, along with the infirmary and warehouses, was built in 1827 to accommodate and serve the needs of the Russian garrison soldiers. The construction inevitably reflected the characteristic features of the Empire style, which was dominant in Russian architecture at the time.

The main gates of the Naryn-Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The eastern gates of the Naryn-Kala citadel (called Bab-el-Alkama by the Arabs) are its main gates, actually built into the retaining wall and covered with pointed arches and slabs forming the base of the rooms of Fatali Khan's khan's office (18th century).

Dag-gates - the gates of shame of the fortress Naryn Kala

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Among the people, they were called the mountain gates, secret gates, spare gates, and even the gates of fugitives or shame. The fact is that one of the rulers of Derbent retreated through these gates during a battle, surrendering the city to the enemy. Because of this, these gates were not used even in peacetime, as exiting through them was considered disgraceful. When Peter I inspected the fortress in 1722 and was told the story of these gates, the emperor decided to go out through them no matter what. He was once again told that it was inappropriate. However, Peter I, saying, "What do I, the Russian tsar, care about Muslim shame," still went out through them, thereby lessening the degree of disgrace.

Dash-gates (Stone Gates or Gates of Stone) — the third gates from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the northern wall of Derbent

Gagarin St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Dash-gates (from Turkic. Stone gates or Gates of stone) are the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the northern wall. They led to the quarries, from where the inhabitants took building material. Hence the name of the gates.

Maiden's Bath in the old part of Derbent

22 Agasieva Ave, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368608

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Derbent Lighthouse

Derbent Lighthouse, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

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Juma Mosque in Derbent is the oldest mosque on the territory of the former USSR.

7, Magal St., 10, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

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Dungeon in the Naryn-Kala Fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The underground prison-dungeon, located in the northeastern part of the Naryn-Kala citadel, is a unique monument of medieval architecture. Its depth is 11 meters, and the internal area is 25 square meters. Light and air penetrated the dungeon through a hole in the stone.

The grave of Esfandiar near the Derbent citadel

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The burial site of the rulers of Derbent — Esfendiyarov is located 35 meters south of the Kala-Kapa gate by the stairs leading to the observation deck.

Orta-kapy (Middle Gates) — the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the southern wall of Derbent

16 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Orta-Kapy (from Turkic, Middle Gates) are the third gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the southern wall. The gates got their name from the district of the ancient city — "Orta-tepe" (Middle Hill), adjacent to these gates.

Khan's Bath in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent Road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Khan’s Bathhouse is an architectural monument, presumably built in the 16th–17th centuries, located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala fortress in Derbent. “The bathhouse in the Caucasus, as throughout the entire East, is a matter of special care… Because the bathhouse serves not only for washing but also for strengthening the body, lifting a fallen mood, for rest, for meetings and conversations about buying and selling, and for displaying skill in chess and backgammon.”

Khan's Palace - the palace complex of the Naryn Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The most interesting and richly ornamented carved stone palace complex in Derbent is the Khan's Palace in the Naryn-Kala citadel, built in 1768 by Fatali Khan, the most powerful feudal ruler of the Eastern Caucasus. It reached its greatest power in the years 1770–1780, during which the entire citadel was transformed into the Khan's residence.

Ancient Eastern Bathhouse (Women’s)

12 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

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Rectangular underground reservoir of the Naryn Kala fortress

Makhachkala-Derbent road, 360600, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

A large rectangular underground reservoir served as the main water storage for the defenders of the citadel. Water was supplied through stone underground channels from mountain springs. The rectangular cistern was adjacent to the service yard of the khan's palace.

Dzharchi-kapy (Herald's Gate) — the first gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel in the northern wall

373F+WW Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia

Dzharchi-Kapy (Herald’s Gate) — the first gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel in the northern wall. At these gates, the khan’s herald (from Turkic *Dzharchi*) proclaimed the orders and decrees of the city’s rulers. Arabic written sources from the 9th–10th centuries call these gates Bab al-Muhajir (Gate of the Refugees). According to legend, the Khazars who controlled the city, unable to withstand the siege by the Arab army led by Maslama in 734, secretly left the city through these gates.

Retail space of Derbent

2nd Nagorny Lane, 12, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Derbent has long been known for its trade relations. Almost everywhere in the city, trade was conducted with imported goods as well as products made by local craftsmen and producers. Many of the active markets have been preserved near the fortress walls of the city to this day. One of the historical trading places was the square in the upper part of the city. The residents of the densely populated magals deliberately did not use this area so that trading places would be located directly in the historic part of the city for their convenience.

Northern wall of the Derbent fortress

6 Mamedbekova St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The construction of the existing northern city wall of the Derbent fortress is dated to the 6th century. Its construction is associated with the name of the ruler of Sasanian Persia, Khosrow I Anushirvan (531–579). The northern wall stretches for 3.5 km from the Naryn-Kala citadel along the northeastern slope of the Jalgan Ridge spur eastward to the sea.

The mosque with a minaret is the only ancient minaret in Derbent.

373G+WC Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia

Currently, in Derbent, only one mosque with a minaret has been preserved, which is called the "Mosque with a Minaret" (Minarya-mesdjidi) or the "Minaret Mosque." It is located in the upper (western) part of the city near the Jarchi-Kapa gate and is the oldest mosque in the city.

House of the Decembrist Bestuzhev-Marlinsky

Magal St., 23, Apt. 147, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The house where the Decembrist Alexander Alexandrovich Bestuzhev-Marlinsky lived from 1830 to 1834

Kilisa Mosque (Mosque Church)

pr. Agasieva, 22, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368608

Kilisa Mosque — one of the neighborhood mosques located near the ancient trading center of the city, received its name (kilisa means church) because for some time (in the 19th century) it was used as a garrison church.

Bala Mosque in the upper part of the city of Derbent

18 Urta-Kapy St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The Bala Mosque is located in the upper part of the city of Derbent, near the "Orta-kapy" gate. The mosque dates from the 11th to the 19th centuries. It is a neighborhood mosque.

The Kirhlyar Mosque is located south of the Kyrhlyar-Kapa gate.

N. Krupskaya St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The mosque is located to the south of the Kyrkhlyar-Kapa gate, and apparently, the mosque's name originated from its location. The one-story building is rectangular in plan (18 x 10 meters), stretched from west to east. The central part of the building is covered by a pointed stone dome with a diameter of 7 meters.

Ancient Eastern Bathhouse (Men's)

2nd Nagorny Lane, 12, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

The ancient men's Eastern bathhouse is located near the Kilis Mosque on the territory of the old market square and is one of the oldest in Derbent. The bathhouse is constructed from well-hewn stone blocks. It has the classic layout of an Eastern hammam – with cold and hot rooms, niches for resting, domed ceilings, and auxiliary rooms.

Dubary-kapy – the fourth from the citadel Naryn-Kala

4 V. Lenin St., Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Dubary-Kapy are the fourth gates from the citadel Naryn-Kala among the preserved gates on the southern city wall.

Kyrkhlyar Gate (Gate of the Forty) — the second gate from the Naryn-Kala citadel on the northern city wall

N. Krupskaya St., 2, Derbent, Republic of Dagestan, Russia, 368600

Kyrkhlyar Gate (from Turkic, Gate of the Magpie) — the second gate from the citadel Naryn-Kala on the northern city wall. The name of the gate comes from the nearby burial site "Kyrkhlyar." Arabic sources call the gate Bab al-Kabir (Great Gate) or Bab al-Jihad (Gate of the Holy War), which is apparently related to the numerous wars in which Muslim troops passed through these gates on military campaigns against the Khazars who had not accepted Islam.