The stables that rivaled the royal court

Why did a local castle in Lémeré end up housing the king's finest stallions? In 1510, François de Beauvau - a captain to King Francis I - built stables in the courtyard that were anything but ordinary. He didn't just want a place to keep horses; he wanted to pioneer a style of equestrian architecture that was, quite literally, the first of its kind. It was so successful that these buildings eventually housed the royal stables of Henry III.

History here has a bit of a sharp edge. The Rivau remained in the Beauvau family's possession for 247 years, and they were quite the players. They were so close to the crown that they could pay homage to their suzerain while standing up, wearing hats, and keeping a sword at their side. Even Joan of Arc stopped by in 1429 to collect war horses from the grounds.

If you visit today, you will find it has been transformed into a Jardin Remarquable. The gardens are divided into twelve spaces inspired by myths and fairy tales, filled with roses from breeders like David Austin. The castle itself is a monument historique, having survived a long period of decay before an eighteen-year restoration started in 1992.

You can still see a Flemish master's 16th-century painting of the Feast of Belshazzar over the fire mantel. It is a strange, beautiful contradiction of a place.

Sources: Wikipedia, OpenStreetMap, Wikidata, Wikimedia Commons