Two graves of Blok - the first is Smolensk Cemetery

Kamskaya St., 24, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199178

Surprisingly, there are two graves of Alexander Blok in Saint Petersburg. Fans of the poet visit both of them, as no one is still certain where his remains are actually buried. Initially, Blok was buried at the Smolensky Orthodox Cemetery, alongside other family members. According to his will, the tombstone was made in the form of a simple wooden cross. In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Mostki (Writers' Footsteps). Blok’s biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial site caused many discrepancies regarding where admirers of Blok’s work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the remains stayed in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Mostki, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet’s name and years of life. Fans love this place and willingly come to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

Surprisingly, there are two graves of Alexander Blok in Saint Petersburg. Fans of the poet visit both of them, as no one is still certain where his remains are actually buried. Initially, Blok was buried at the Smolensky Orthodox Cemetery, next to other family members. According to his will, the tombstone was made in the form of a simple wooden cross. In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Mostki (Writers' Footpaths). Biographers of Blok saw no sense in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial site caused many discrepancies regarding where admirers of Blok’s work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the ashes remained in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Mostki, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet’s name and years of life. Fans love this place and willingly come to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

Although Alexander Blok accepted the October Revolution and wished to live and work in difficult times alongside his country, the authorities treated him with distrust. This did not prevent them from overloading him with work in various committees and commissions, offering almost no moral or material support. By the summer of 1921, in the conditions of a hungry and cold revolutionary Petrograd, Blok’s physical and mental strength was almost completely exhausted, and life lost its meaning for him. Some believe that treatment in a sanatorium in Finland could have saved him, but the decision to leave with his wife was delayed for several months and was obtained practically on the day of his death.

Blok was prescribed various medicines, medical councils were held, but throughout the summer of 1921 his condition steadily worsened, with a progressive increase in heart weakness. The cause of death was named as inflammation of the heart valves. According to modern doctors, it was subacute septic endocarditis, a subtly developing disease that most often affects men aged twenty to forty. It is assumed that in Blok’s case, the endocarditis was caused by chronic tonsillitis, meaning that an operation to remove the constantly inflamed tonsils should have been performed much earlier. To this day, septic endocarditis is not always correctly diagnosed and treated, and not always successfully, even with the use of antibiotics, which only began to be widely used starting from the 1940s.

Alexander Blok died on the morning of August 7. It became known only the day before that the funeral would take place on the morning of August 10, so there was no time to publish an announcement in newspapers. Only posters announcing the funeral were put up. Nevertheless, about a thousand mourners gathered, which was surprising for the depopulated Petrograd of the post-revolutionary years. For six kilometers from Dekabristov Street (formerly Officers’ Street), where Blok lived, to the cemetery, the open coffin with the body was carried by hand. There was no music or farewell speeches.

The funeral service took place in the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, which stood on the bank of the Smolenka River, near the cemetery gates. The deceased was buried on the Ginterovskaya (now Blokovskaya) path of the Smolensky Cemetery next to the graves of his relatives. In the following years, all who wished to honor the poet’s memory came to the grave located deep in the cemetery, marked by a simple wooden cross and a bench standing nearby.

On the twentieth anniversary of Alexander Blok’s death, it was planned to reinter his remains in the “Literatorskie Mostki” section of the Volkovo Necropolis. However, this was prevented by the outbreak of war and the tragic blockade period in Leningrad’s history. During the blockade, the grave cross and the bench next to it disappeared, and the grave itself was almost completely leveled with the ground. Just two years later, Vsevolod Rozhdestvensky with great difficulty found this place. The cause was not so much oblivion as the hard years of survival. In 1937, instead of the cross, a standard concrete basin was installed. Lyubov Dmitrievna was still alive at that time; she managed to insist on restoring the grave’s former appearance — a mound with a cross.

During the blockade, the cross disappeared; in its place, an iron rod with the inscription “Blok” was stuck into the grave. After the blockade was lifted, it was decided to reinter the remains at the Literatorskie Mostki. At the end of September 1944, the remains of Alexander Blok and his relatives were exhumed from the Smolensky burial ground, transported by cart to the Literatorskie Mostki, and buried there on a plot formerly belonging to the Shvakhgeim family. Two years later, a simple black marble obelisk with a bas-relief portrait of the poet and a commemorative inscription was installed on the new grave. The resting place of the poet and his relatives is surrounded by a decorative metal fence.

As contemporaries claim, Blok’s remains were not fully transferred to the new location; it is said that only his skull was moved. Thus, Alexander Blok now has two places of final rest — at the Smolensky and Volkovo cemeteries in Saint Petersburg. And all those who cherish the work of the outstanding Russian symbolist poet come to honor his memory and lay flowers at both graves.

How to find Blok’s grave? The Smolensky Orthodox Cemetery in Petersburg is located at 26 Kamskaya Street. If you enter the necropolis from the Kamskaya side, through the Epiphany Gates, and walk along the Petrogradskaya path, on the right-hand side you will see the Church of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. Then you need to continue walking straight through several paths without turning — the Straight, Speransky, and Trinity paths. Beyond them is an open area without paths. At the end of it is a sign “Blokovskaya path.” This trail will lead you to the poet’s grave.



Sources:

https://spb.ritual.ru/poleznaya-informatsiya/stati/mogila-a-bloka-v-peterburge/

https://spbgorritual.ru/religiya-i-traditsii/dve-mogily-aleksandra-bloka/


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More stories from St. Petersburg of Alexander Blok

The poet's early childhood

Universitetskaya Embankment, 9, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

In infancy, Blok lived and was raised in the family of his grandfather Andrey Beketov, a botanist and rector of St. Petersburg University.

Grenadier Regiment Barracks - Youth

Petrogradskaya Embankment, 44, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

The poet Alexander Blok's mother divorces her husband and later marries the military officer Franz Kublicki-Piottukh. The family moves to the barracks of the Grenadier Regiment. From 1889 to 1906, Blok lives with his mother and stepfather in an apartment in the officers' barracks of the Life Guards Grenadier Regiment.

Gymnasium Period

Bolshoy Prospekt P.S., 37, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197198

My mother took me to the gymnasium; for the first time in my life, from a cozy and quiet family, I found myself among a crowd of neatly cut and loudly shouting boys; I was unbearably scared of something, I would have gladly run away or hidden somewhere; but at the classroom door, though open, I felt an impassable boundary. They seated me at the front desk, right in front of the teacher’s podium, which was pushed up close to it and on which the Latin teacher was about to step any minute. I felt like a rooster whose beak had been chalked to the floor, and it remained bent and motionless, not daring to raise its head… *Confession of a Pagan.* A. Blok

Universities of the Bloc

Universitetskaya Embankment, 11, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

The famous poet Alexander Blok graduated from Saint Petersburg University at the beginning of the 20th century. He started in the Faculty of Law but finished university as a student of Philology. In his letters, he sometimes mentioned the time he spent within the university walls. Like today's students who move from school to university, Alexander Blok was amazed by the freedom that higher education grants after the tedious rote learning in school. “At university, of course, it is much more interesting, and besides, there is a very strong feeling of freedom, which I, however, do not misuse and attend lectures diligently” (Letter to his father, 18.10.1898).

The Marriage of Blok

Lakhtinskaya St., 3, lit. A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197136

Alexander Blok and Lyubov Mendeleeva, the daughter of chemist Dmitri Mendeleev, had known each other since childhood. But it was in the summer of 1898, when they worked together on an amateur home production of *Hamlet*, that they grew closer. Their estates near Moscow, Shakhmatovo and Boblovo, were neighbors, and their parents had always been friends. She perfectly fit the image of a professor’s daughter: a strict and reserved gymnasium student. At that time, Blok was not yet “the” Blok — he was only destined to become a famous poet. He asked for Mendeleeva’s hand and heart much later and married his beloved only in 1903, at the age of 23. Lyubov Dmitrievna became the poet’s muse and influenced the creation of his first book of poems, *Verses About the Beautiful Lady*. Their relationship, with interruptions, lasted until the poet’s final years.

Nemetti Theater

39 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Modern residents of St. Petersburg associate Dekabristov Street exclusively with the Mariinsky Theatre. Numerous disputes and regrets remain in history about the demolished Palace of Culture of the Fifth Five-Year Plan, and even earlier, the building of the decoration workshops destroyed by fire, which has now been rebuilt into a Concert Hall. It was precisely on this site, listed on the city’s posters as Mariinsky-3, that the best theatrical venues and the most amazing park in the city once stood.

Blokovskaya "Stranger" - Ozerki Station

Ozerki, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197375

“In the evenings above the restaurants, the hot air is wild and deaf…” Who isn’t familiar with these lines from the famous Blok poem *The Stranger*? Under the poem, there is a note: “April 24, 1906, Ozerki.” It is commonly believed that the poet wrote it in the station restaurant in Ozerki. But where exactly? In this popular summer suburb, there were two stations: one on the Finland railway line, the other on the Ozerki branch of the Primorskaya (Sestroretskaya) railway…

Poem Retribution

Malaya Monetnaya St., 12, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

From 1910 to 1912, Alexander Blok lived here together with Lyubov Mendeleeva. Their four-room apartment No. 27 was located on the sixth, attic floor. The poet's study had a balcony, which has been preserved to this day.

The Last Address of Blok

57 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Died "from lack of air." A contemporary recalled: "They had just removed the plaster mask from his face. It was quiet and solemnly desolate... nearby, by the wall, stood Anna Akhmatova quietly weeping; by six o'clock the room was filled with those gathered for the memorial service. Anna Akhmatova lay dressed in the shroud of the deceased, with a gaunt, yellowish-pale face... In death, he lost the appearance of greatness and took on the visage of suffering and decay."

Two graves of Blok - the second is Volkovo Cemetery

Rasstannaya St., 30, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 192007

In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Bridges. Block's biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial gave rise to many discrepancies regarding where fans of Block's work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the ashes remained in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Bridges, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet's name and years of life. Admirers love this place and willingly come to it to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

The Suicide Pharmacy of Blok

Chkalovskaya metro station, Admiral Lazarev Embankment, 24, BC "Trinity", Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197110

Night, street, lamp, pharmacy, Meaningless and dim light. Live for another quarter of a century — Everything will be the same. There is no way out.

Controversial monument to Blok

60 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

In Saint Petersburg, on Dekabristov Street, a monument to Alexander Blok was unveiled. The bronze sculpture, 3.6 meters tall, was placed in the square near the house where the poet lived for nine years from 1912 to 1921. The authors of the sculpture are Evgeny Rotanov and architect Ivan Kozhin.