The Last Address of Blok

57 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Died "from lack of air." A contemporary recalled: "They had just removed the plaster mask from his face. It was quiet and solemnly desolate... nearby, by the wall, stood Anna Akhmatova quietly weeping; by six o'clock the room was filled with those gathered for the memorial service. Anna Akhmatova lay dressed in the shroud of the deceased, with a gaunt, yellowish-pale face... In death, he lost the appearance of greatness and took on the visage of suffering and decay."

The house was built between 1874 and 1876, architect M. F. Peterson. The income house belonged to the merchant Petrovsky. In 1911, according to the project of civil engineer Fantalov, the service premises were rebuilt, and a laundry and stable were built in the courtyard. According to the architect Basin’s project, in 1914 the wing facing the embankment of the Pryazhka River was expanded, and a five-story wing was built in the courtyard.

Anna Akhmatova came here to Blok on one of the last Sundays of 1913 and brought him his books so that he could inscribe them for her. On each, he simply wrote: “To Akhmatova – Blok,” and on the third volume—the madrigal dedicated to Akhmatova, “Beauty is terrible, they will tell you…” Akhmatova recalled: “I never had the Spanish shawl in which I am depicted there, but at that time Blok was obsessed with Carmen and ‘Spanishized’ me too.” The poetic cycle “Carmen,” as well as the cycles “Sacred World” and “Motherland,” were written in this house. Later, the poems “Retribution” and “The Twelve” were also born here.

From here, in 1916, Blok was drafted into the army (he served in an engineering and construction detachment), and he returned here a few months before the October Revolution. He lived here in his last years in deep depression, experiencing a sharp discord with reality.

At house number 57 on Dekabristov Street, the poet lived until the end of his life, which was cut short in 1921 due to inflammation of the heart valves. If only he had been granted permission to travel abroad in time, where he could have been treated, Blok might have survived and perhaps created more powerful works condemning the ruthless times in which he lived. In this study, Blok created almost all his works from 1912 to 1920, including the poetic cycles “What the Wind Sings About,” “The Life of My Friend,” “Black Blood,” “Iambs,” “Carmen,” the poems “Nightingale Garden” and “The Twelve,” the drama “The Rose and the Cross”; here he continued work on the poem “Retribution,” and on the cycles “Italian Poems” and “After Twelve Years.”

Perhaps he could have emigrated and written abroad, as creating in Russia was no longer possible for him. In his last years, Blok, tired and describing his state with the words “they drank me up,” unable to write: “For almost a year I have not belonged to myself, I have forgotten how to write poems and think about poems…”—barely resembled the young, daring man before the revolution. However, a calm environment and rest could have revived him... Yet 1921 was tragic: literature lost its brilliant and significant poet, leaving us a legacy of words—harsh and beautiful, lyrical and angry, sensitive and... still needed by us despite the passage of years and the vast distances.

He died “from lack of air.” A contemporary recalled: “They had just removed the plaster mask from his face. It was quiet and solemnly deserted… nearby, by the wall, Anna Akhmatova stood quietly crying; by six o’clock the room was filled with those gathered for the requiem. A. A. lay in the funeral attire with a thinned, yellowish-pale face… In death, he lost the appearance of grandeur and took on the form of suffering and decay.”

At his funeral, there was a huge crowd. His coffin was carried on hands from this house on Officer Street to the Smolensk Cemetery.

Today, the house houses the Alexander Blok museum-apartment, where the poet’s archive, library, and personal belongings are exhibited.

The room’s setting has been almost completely preserved; it was transferred to the museum by the Institute of Russian Literature of the Russian Academy of Sciences (Pushkin House), where it had been kept since 1940, after the poet’s widow’s death. When recreating the study, as well as other rooms, letters, notebooks, and diaries of Blok, memories of his relatives and contemporaries, archival documents, and fragments of original wallpaper preserved on the walls under later layers were used. The writing desk belonged to Blok from his grandmother E. G. Beketova, the office chair and sofa—from the study of his grandfather A. N. Beketov. The redwood bookcase was purchased by the poet’s wife because the bronze plate on its lock reminded her of lines from Blok’s poem “Under Masks”:

There, by the carved old door

A naked boy clung

On one wing.

The painting by Roerich “City on the Hill” (illustration to “Italian Poems”) and the sketch of the set “Ocean Shore” by Dobuzhinsky (for the unrealized production of the drama “The Rose and the Cross” at the Moscow Art Theatre) were gifted to Blok by the authors.

Blok brought a photograph of Massys’s painting “Salome with the Head of John the Baptist” (right side of the triptych “The Burial of Christ”) from Belgium in 1911. Later, in the poem “Antwerp,” he wrote:

And you—look into the mist of ages

In the calm city museum:

There reigns Quentin Massys;

There in the folds of Salome’s dress

Flowers of gold are woven...

Also displayed here are personal belongings of the poet’s wife and various items preserved from her collections, sold off during the Civil War years.

Sources:

https://spbdnevnik.ru/news/2020-11-27/ot-universitetskoy-do-dekabristov-adresa-aleksandra-bloka-v-peterburge

https://family-history.ru/material/biography/mesto/blok/dekabristov57/

https://izi.travel/sv/browse/c41604b9-2e9b-40e9-9291-c0c4d3aa90d7

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More stories from St. Petersburg of Alexander Blok

The poet's early childhood

Universitetskaya Embankment, 9, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

In infancy, Blok lived and was raised in the family of his grandfather Andrey Beketov, a botanist and rector of St. Petersburg University.

Grenadier Regiment Barracks - Youth

Petrogradskaya Embankment, 44, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

The poet Alexander Blok's mother divorces her husband and later marries the military officer Franz Kublicki-Piottukh. The family moves to the barracks of the Grenadier Regiment. From 1889 to 1906, Blok lives with his mother and stepfather in an apartment in the officers' barracks of the Life Guards Grenadier Regiment.

Gymnasium Period

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My mother took me to the gymnasium; for the first time in my life, from a cozy and quiet family, I found myself among a crowd of neatly cut and loudly shouting boys; I was unbearably scared of something, I would have gladly run away or hidden somewhere; but at the classroom door, though open, I felt an impassable boundary. They seated me at the front desk, right in front of the teacher’s podium, which was pushed up close to it and on which the Latin teacher was about to step any minute. I felt like a rooster whose beak had been chalked to the floor, and it remained bent and motionless, not daring to raise its head… *Confession of a Pagan.* A. Blok

Universities of the Bloc

Universitetskaya Embankment, 11, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

The famous poet Alexander Blok graduated from Saint Petersburg University at the beginning of the 20th century. He started in the Faculty of Law but finished university as a student of Philology. In his letters, he sometimes mentioned the time he spent within the university walls. Like today's students who move from school to university, Alexander Blok was amazed by the freedom that higher education grants after the tedious rote learning in school. “At university, of course, it is much more interesting, and besides, there is a very strong feeling of freedom, which I, however, do not misuse and attend lectures diligently” (Letter to his father, 18.10.1898).

The Marriage of Blok

Lakhtinskaya St., 3, lit. A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197136

Alexander Blok and Lyubov Mendeleeva, the daughter of chemist Dmitri Mendeleev, had known each other since childhood. But it was in the summer of 1898, when they worked together on an amateur home production of *Hamlet*, that they grew closer. Their estates near Moscow, Shakhmatovo and Boblovo, were neighbors, and their parents had always been friends. She perfectly fit the image of a professor’s daughter: a strict and reserved gymnasium student. At that time, Blok was not yet “the” Blok — he was only destined to become a famous poet. He asked for Mendeleeva’s hand and heart much later and married his beloved only in 1903, at the age of 23. Lyubov Dmitrievna became the poet’s muse and influenced the creation of his first book of poems, *Verses About the Beautiful Lady*. Their relationship, with interruptions, lasted until the poet’s final years.

Nemetti Theater

39 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Modern residents of St. Petersburg associate Dekabristov Street exclusively with the Mariinsky Theatre. Numerous disputes and regrets remain in history about the demolished Palace of Culture of the Fifth Five-Year Plan, and even earlier, the building of the decoration workshops destroyed by fire, which has now been rebuilt into a Concert Hall. It was precisely on this site, listed on the city’s posters as Mariinsky-3, that the best theatrical venues and the most amazing park in the city once stood.

Blokovskaya "Stranger" - Ozerki Station

Ozerki, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197375

“In the evenings above the restaurants, the hot air is wild and deaf…” Who isn’t familiar with these lines from the famous Blok poem *The Stranger*? Under the poem, there is a note: “April 24, 1906, Ozerki.” It is commonly believed that the poet wrote it in the station restaurant in Ozerki. But where exactly? In this popular summer suburb, there were two stations: one on the Finland railway line, the other on the Ozerki branch of the Primorskaya (Sestroretskaya) railway…

Poem Retribution

Malaya Monetnaya St., 12, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

From 1910 to 1912, Alexander Blok lived here together with Lyubov Mendeleeva. Their four-room apartment No. 27 was located on the sixth, attic floor. The poet's study had a balcony, which has been preserved to this day.

Two graves of Blok - the first is Smolensk Cemetery

Kamskaya St., 24, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199178

Surprisingly, there are two graves of Alexander Blok in Saint Petersburg. Fans of the poet visit both of them, as no one is still certain where his remains are actually buried. Initially, Blok was buried at the Smolensky Orthodox Cemetery, alongside other family members. According to his will, the tombstone was made in the form of a simple wooden cross. In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Mostki (Writers' Footsteps). Blok’s biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial site caused many discrepancies regarding where admirers of Blok’s work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the remains stayed in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Mostki, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet’s name and years of life. Fans love this place and willingly come to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

Two graves of Blok - the second is Volkovo Cemetery

Rasstannaya St., 30, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 192007

In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Bridges. Block's biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial gave rise to many discrepancies regarding where fans of Block's work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the ashes remained in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Bridges, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet's name and years of life. Admirers love this place and willingly come to it to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

The Suicide Pharmacy of Blok

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Night, street, lamp, pharmacy, Meaningless and dim light. Live for another quarter of a century — Everything will be the same. There is no way out.

Controversial monument to Blok

60 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

In Saint Petersburg, on Dekabristov Street, a monument to Alexander Blok was unveiled. The bronze sculpture, 3.6 meters tall, was placed in the square near the house where the poet lived for nine years from 1912 to 1921. The authors of the sculpture are Evgeny Rotanov and architect Ivan Kozhin.