Nemetti Theater

39 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Modern residents of St. Petersburg associate Dekabristov Street exclusively with the Mariinsky Theatre. Numerous disputes and regrets remain in history about the demolished Palace of Culture of the Fifth Five-Year Plan, and even earlier, the building of the decoration workshops destroyed by fire, which has now been rebuilt into a Concert Hall. It was precisely on this site, listed on the city’s posters as Mariinsky-3, that the best theatrical venues and the most amazing park in the city once stood.

Modern residents of St. Petersburg associate Dekabristov Street exclusively with the Mariinsky Theatre. Numerous disputes and regrets remain in history about the demolished Palace of Culture of the Five-Year Plan, and even earlier, the building of the decoration workshops destroyed by fire, which has now been rebuilt into a Concert Hall. It was on this site, marked on the city’s posters as Mariinsky-3, that the best theatrical venues and the most amazing park in the city once stood.

In the 19th century, Dekabristov Street was called Officers’ Street, where at numbers 35–39 was located the Demidov Garden (1830–1918), in which various theaters operated over the years: Nemetti (1893–1897), Farce (1905–1911), Komissarzhevskaya (1906–1909), the Merry Theatre for Elderly Children (1909–1910), as well as the city’s first Luna Park (1912–1918).

At the end of the 18th century, this place was home to the “Naryshkin Garden,” the first entertainment venue where citizens could participate in celebrations, masquerades, and dances on Wednesdays and Sundays. The open-air theater served as a stage for pantomimes and fireworks. Over time, the owners changed—from Catherine II’s Ober-Hofmeister L. Naryshkin, in the 1830s it passed to Demidov, a philanthropist and industrialist, who in 1864 leased part of the land to Egarev. The entrepreneur on part of the plot at Officers’ Street, 39, organized the “Russian Family Garden,” which the townspeople nicknamed “Demidov.”

The first performance in the “Demidov Garden” took place on May 1, 1878, and in December the Winter Café-Chanteen “Folie-Berger” opened. A few years later, in 1882, the Winter Theatre was opened nearby (Officers’ Street, 35). The landowner Egarev, due to financial decline in the mid-1880s, sold the garden at auction to former operetta actress Linskaya-Nemetti. The new owner demolished the old building and built two new ones: the Summer and Winter “Nemetti Theatres.” St. Petersburg residents could enjoy performances by artists of various genres here; in summer, open-air variety shows were held, with main acts by singers and reciters; in the warm stone Winter Theatre, operettas and dramas were staged.

The Winter Theatre suffered a fire (1882) but was immediately restored and continued to operate. Later it was rented by Amphitheatrov’s “Russian Dramatic Theatre” (1898). Then it was bought by Shabelskaya (1900) to organize the main stage for her troupe.

In 1906, Vera Fyodorovna Komissarzhevskaya opened her theater here, in the building of the old Nemetti Theatre. The interior was redesigned: the hall now resembled an ancient temple—white, round, with marble columns. Artist Lev Bakst created the curtain “Elysium” — bright souls of the otherworldly realm amid paradisiacal groves. At Komissarzhevskaya’s theater, a synthesis of the arts was born, bringing together the creative destinies of artists, poets, musicians, and actors. The director invited was Vsevolod Meyerhold. On December 21, 1906, Meyerhold staged the play “The Booth” by Blok on the theater’s stage. This performance became not only an event in the theater’s life and in the history of St. Petersburg culture but also a symbol of the culture of the entire Silver Age for future generations. Blok himself wrote about the play: “I owe the ideal staging of the little fairy tale ‘The Booth’ to Meyerhold, his troupe, Kuzmin, and Sapunov.”

The actors played marionette puppets, which in turn enacted the tragedy. Everyone who attended this first performance of “The Booth” remembered the passionate excitement that gripped the auditorium, the turmoil that began in the stalls when the last sounds of Kuzmin’s sharp, spicy, anxious, and sweet music faded and the curtain separated the audience from the mysterious and magical world in which the poet Pierrot lived and suffered. This role was played by Meyerhold himself.

Georgy Chulkov wrote: “I have never before or since witnessed such irreconcilable opposition and such enthusiasm from admirers in the theater auditorium. The furious whistles of the enemies and the thunder of friendly applause mingled…”

In 1909, Komissarzhevskaya, together with N. Evreinov, organized the “Merry Theatre for Elderly Children” here. Despite the great success of this theater’s performances and good attendance, it had to be closed. The reason was prosaic—the lease ended, and from the new season it was transferred to another troupe. Shortly thereafter, V. Komissarzhevskaya died (February 12, 1910); until the revolution, the troupe of K. Nezlobin performed on the stage of the theater she created.

In May 1912, entrepreneur Yalyshev opened Luna Park on the territory of Demidov Garden. The entrance was decorated with wide gates, and various pavilions were built everywhere, designed by architect Waitens. A restaurant was built in the park, and stages for theatrical performances were equipped (on one of which, in December 1913, the premiere of a futurist play by Mayakovsky took place), but what mainly attracted audiences of all ages was the attractions in the center of the garden.

The first Luna Park in Russia was built by an English company with money from a Russian millionaire and was modeled after the one recently opened in London. It housed “roller coasters,” a “Ferris wheel,” “Love Mill,” “Drunken Ladder,” “Humorous Kitchen,” and many other previously unseen attractions.

Luna Park survived World War I, during which it continued to operate (except for autumn 1915–spring 1916, when a military automobile company was stationed there), but some pavilions had already been demolished. In November 1915, the summer restaurant burned down, and a year later a stone winter theater and concert hall were built in its place. In June 1917, the premiere of I. Kalman’s operetta “Silva” took place on its stage. The Luna Park territory housed a music hall, variety shows, and two cinemas (“Dona Gloria” and “Gloria”).

In April 1918, Luna Park was requisitioned and transferred to the Kolomna Council of Workers’ and Soldiers’ Deputies. That same year, Meyerhold organized the Workers’ Theatre of the 2nd Kolomna District and staged plays as director, but due to extremely poor attendance, it had to be closed.

Soon after, it was completely destroyed, and a stadium was built on its site, which now belongs to the Lesgaft Institute of Physical Culture, as well as the Concert Hall of the Mariinsky Theatre.

Sources:

https://alcurium.com/2016/01/19/id_2014/

https://www.citywalls.ru/house10969.html

 

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More stories from St. Petersburg of Alexander Blok

The poet's early childhood

Universitetskaya Embankment, 9, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

In infancy, Blok lived and was raised in the family of his grandfather Andrey Beketov, a botanist and rector of St. Petersburg University.

Grenadier Regiment Barracks - Youth

Petrogradskaya Embankment, 44, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

The poet Alexander Blok's mother divorces her husband and later marries the military officer Franz Kublicki-Piottukh. The family moves to the barracks of the Grenadier Regiment. From 1889 to 1906, Blok lives with his mother and stepfather in an apartment in the officers' barracks of the Life Guards Grenadier Regiment.

Gymnasium Period

Bolshoy Prospekt P.S., 37, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197198

My mother took me to the gymnasium; for the first time in my life, from a cozy and quiet family, I found myself among a crowd of neatly cut and loudly shouting boys; I was unbearably scared of something, I would have gladly run away or hidden somewhere; but at the classroom door, though open, I felt an impassable boundary. They seated me at the front desk, right in front of the teacher’s podium, which was pushed up close to it and on which the Latin teacher was about to step any minute. I felt like a rooster whose beak had been chalked to the floor, and it remained bent and motionless, not daring to raise its head… *Confession of a Pagan.* A. Blok

Universities of the Bloc

Universitetskaya Embankment, 11, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199034

The famous poet Alexander Blok graduated from Saint Petersburg University at the beginning of the 20th century. He started in the Faculty of Law but finished university as a student of Philology. In his letters, he sometimes mentioned the time he spent within the university walls. Like today's students who move from school to university, Alexander Blok was amazed by the freedom that higher education grants after the tedious rote learning in school. “At university, of course, it is much more interesting, and besides, there is a very strong feeling of freedom, which I, however, do not misuse and attend lectures diligently” (Letter to his father, 18.10.1898).

The Marriage of Blok

Lakhtinskaya St., 3, lit. A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197136

Alexander Blok and Lyubov Mendeleeva, the daughter of chemist Dmitri Mendeleev, had known each other since childhood. But it was in the summer of 1898, when they worked together on an amateur home production of *Hamlet*, that they grew closer. Their estates near Moscow, Shakhmatovo and Boblovo, were neighbors, and their parents had always been friends. She perfectly fit the image of a professor’s daughter: a strict and reserved gymnasium student. At that time, Blok was not yet “the” Blok — he was only destined to become a famous poet. He asked for Mendeleeva’s hand and heart much later and married his beloved only in 1903, at the age of 23. Lyubov Dmitrievna became the poet’s muse and influenced the creation of his first book of poems, *Verses About the Beautiful Lady*. Their relationship, with interruptions, lasted until the poet’s final years.

Blokovskaya "Stranger" - Ozerki Station

Ozerki, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197375

“In the evenings above the restaurants, the hot air is wild and deaf…” Who isn’t familiar with these lines from the famous Blok poem *The Stranger*? Under the poem, there is a note: “April 24, 1906, Ozerki.” It is commonly believed that the poet wrote it in the station restaurant in Ozerki. But where exactly? In this popular summer suburb, there were two stations: one on the Finland railway line, the other on the Ozerki branch of the Primorskaya (Sestroretskaya) railway…

Poem Retribution

Malaya Monetnaya St., 12, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197101

From 1910 to 1912, Alexander Blok lived here together with Lyubov Mendeleeva. Their four-room apartment No. 27 was located on the sixth, attic floor. The poet's study had a balcony, which has been preserved to this day.

The Last Address of Blok

57 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

Died "from lack of air." A contemporary recalled: "They had just removed the plaster mask from his face. It was quiet and solemnly desolate... nearby, by the wall, stood Anna Akhmatova quietly weeping; by six o'clock the room was filled with those gathered for the memorial service. Anna Akhmatova lay dressed in the shroud of the deceased, with a gaunt, yellowish-pale face... In death, he lost the appearance of greatness and took on the visage of suffering and decay."

Two graves of Blok - the first is Smolensk Cemetery

Kamskaya St., 24, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 199178

Surprisingly, there are two graves of Alexander Blok in Saint Petersburg. Fans of the poet visit both of them, as no one is still certain where his remains are actually buried. Initially, Blok was buried at the Smolensky Orthodox Cemetery, alongside other family members. According to his will, the tombstone was made in the form of a simple wooden cross. In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Mostki (Writers' Footsteps). Blok’s biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial site caused many discrepancies regarding where admirers of Blok’s work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the remains stayed in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Mostki, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet’s name and years of life. Fans love this place and willingly come to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

Two graves of Blok - the second is Volkovo Cemetery

Rasstannaya St., 30, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 192007

In 1944, it was decided to move the grave to the Volkovo Cemetery, to the prestigious Literatorskie Bridges. Block's biographers never saw the point in this action, considering it unnecessary. The new burial gave rise to many discrepancies regarding where fans of Block's work should make their pilgrimage. Historians claim that only the skull was moved to the Volkovo Cemetery, while the rest of the ashes remained in place. This version was confirmed by the art historian, academician Dmitry Likhachyov. Today, at the Literatorskie Bridges, one can see a beautiful memorial in the form of a black stele with the poet's name and years of life. Admirers love this place and willingly come to it to honor the memory of the outstanding Russian symbolist.

The Suicide Pharmacy of Blok

Chkalovskaya metro station, Admiral Lazarev Embankment, 24, BC "Trinity", Saint Petersburg, Russia, 197110

Night, street, lamp, pharmacy, Meaningless and dim light. Live for another quarter of a century — Everything will be the same. There is no way out.

Controversial monument to Blok

60 Dekabristov St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190121

In Saint Petersburg, on Dekabristov Street, a monument to Alexander Blok was unveiled. The bronze sculpture, 3.6 meters tall, was placed in the square near the house where the poet lived for nine years from 1912 to 1921. The authors of the sculpture are Evgeny Rotanov and architect Ivan Kozhin.