Lithuania: Vilnius: Ruins of the Lithuanian Jerusalem

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One of the old nicknames of Vilnius is the Lithuanian Jerusalem: in the 18th-19th centuries, it became the unofficial capital of Yiddishland, the intellectual and spiritual center for Yiddish-speaking people. In the interwar period, nearly a third of its population consisted of Jewish families. It was a true golden age for Yiddish culture: the city was home to Jewish scholars and rabbis, with more than 100 synagogues and prayer houses. During the war, the Jewish community of Lithuania was destroyed by 94% — a horrific figure even in the context of the entire Holocaust, and today almost nothing remains to remind us of its existence. When Jews first appeared in Vilnius is now uncertain — the earliest mention of Jewish merchants, who even had their own guest courtyard, dates back to 1326, but these merchants were likely outsiders. The first Jewish cemetery is mentioned in 1483, but overall, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, contrary to popular belief, was not very eager to allow Jews within its borders. In fact, Jews in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth were a direct consequence of the "nobles' democracy," or rather the weakness of the Polish-Lithuanian merchant class itself, so magnates preferred to invite foreigners for the despised trade — whether Tatars and Karaites in Lithuania, Armenians in Galicia, or Jews in Crown Poland. Jewish expansion into Lithuania began in 1593 with a decree from King Sigismund Vasa, allowing Jews to own property and open synagogues here. However, the first Vilnius synagogue is known from 1572, and by 1592 it was burned down during a pogrom. The building of the Great Synagogue, which stood until the war, was constructed between 1630-33, and over time it became the center of Yiddishland. But the events that turned Vilnius into the Northern Jerusalem began in the 18th century in Ukraine, in Medzhybizh. This concerns the emergence of a new Jewish movement — Hasidism, which arose largely as a consequence of the Khmelnytsky Uprising: before the war, Jews referred to the pogroms carried out by the Cossacks during the Ukrainian-Polish war as the Catastrophe, in which up to one hundred thousand people died. Just as after the Holocaust in the 20th century, Ukrainian Jews could no longer live as before after Khmelnytsky, speaking of the imminent end of the world and the coming of the Messiah, which became fertile ground for the new teaching. But Khmelnytsky's devastation did not affect Lithuania (including Belarus), so the worldview there was somewhat different: Hasidim, with their reverence for the tzaddik ("righteous one," the spiritual leader of the community), tales, and dances, seemed to the Litvaks like savagery bordering on paganism. Here arose the opposite movement, the Misnagdim ("opposition"), where, as had been customary for centuries, the knowledge of the Torah was paramount. The Litvaks were led by Eliyahu ben Shlomo Zalman, better known as the Vilna Gaon ("genius") — he was born near Brest, studied in Kėdainiai, traveled extensively among European communities, engaging with the most enlightened Jews and studying primary sources, and finally settled in Vilnius in 1745, where, even without being a rabbi, he soon gained enormous authority and influence — his ideas were even embraced by the nobleman Valentin Potocki, who converted to Judaism and was, according to legend, burned at the stake for it in 1749. However, the Judaism of the Vilna Gaon was not only orthodox but also enlightened. The characteristics of the Litvak shtetls gave rise to yeshivas that were enormous for their time. The Vilna yeshiva was even elevated in 1873 to the Jewish Teachers' Institute, while the "ordinary" teachers' institute in Vilnius opened only in 1876. As a result, in the 19th century Vilnius became not an economic center (like Odessa or Kyiv), nor even a spiritual one (like Uman or Berdychiv), but precisely the intellectual center of Yiddishland. Even the well-known Ilya Efron (who, together with Brockhaus, published the famous encyclopedia) was a great-grandson of the Vilna Gaon. In 1864, Jews were allowed to settle throughout the city, but the Northern Jerusalem reached its peak outside the Russian Empire. In 1915 (under the "first" Germans), the Jewish Philharmonic was formed (also serving as a drama theater and the sports society "Maccabi"), the building of which now houses the Jewish Museum on Novogrudskaya Street. And in the former income house of Yanov on Bolshaya Pogulyanka, the Jewish Scientific Institute opened in 1925, which since 1940 has been located in New York and is engaged in researching the cultural heritage of European and American Ashkenazi Jews (primarily the Yiddish language, literature, and folklore). There were Jewish hospitals, sports halls, gymnasiums, old people's homes, and much, much more. Even from the remnants of the Lithuanian Jerusalem, one could walk for a whole day.

Good Doctor Aibolit and the real Jewish doctor Tsemakh Shabad

Mėsinių St. 5, 01135 Vilnius, Lithuania

Who didn’t read about the kind Doctor Aibolit in childhood, the one who treated unfortunate little animals? He is one of the most famous characters created by Korney Chukovsky. However, the hero is not just a product of the author’s imagination; in his traits, the children’s writer forever immortalized his good friend and truly kind doctor Cemach Shabad. Who he was and how he earned both a fairy tale and a monument, read here.

Mass killings in Ponary (Paneriai) (more than 70,000 people)

Agrastų St. 15A, 02243 Vilnius, Lithuania

Mass shootings by the Nazis and Lithuanian collaborators of the Jews of Vilnius, Soviet prisoners of war, and resistance fighters in the forest near the village of Ponary (also known as Upper Ponary) during World War II. It should be emphasized that among the victims of Ponary were fifteen thousand Poles, including, among others, the Vilnius intelligentsia, such as professors of the Stefan Batory University in Vilnius, as well as fighters of the Home Army:

The first headquarters of the Institute for Jewish Research (YIVO)

J. Basanavičius St. 16, 03224 Vilnius, Lithuania

YIVO is an organization that preserves, studies, and teaches the cultural history of Jewish life throughout Eastern Europe, Germany, and Russia, as well as orthography, lexicography, and other research related to Yiddish.

Vilnius Gaon - a brilliant thinker and great researcher

Žydų St. 5, 01131 Vilnius, Lithuania

The Vilna Gaon, or Eliyahu ben Shlomo Zalman, holds an exceptional place in Jewish history as one of the most outstanding thinkers and scholars of his time. His life and works left an indelible mark on the religious and intellectual tradition of the Jewish people. Vilnius, which in the 18th century was the cultural and spiritual center of Eastern European Jewry, became the place from which the ideas and teachings of the Gaon spread throughout the world. The era in which the Vilna Gaon lived was a time of significant change in Europe. It was a period when the Enlightenment and scientific discoveries actively influenced European society, including Jewish communities. In this environment, the Gaon occupied a unique position, combining a deep commitment to traditional Jewish teachings with an interest in science and philosophy. The historical context in which the Gaon lived was characterized by significant changes and challenges for the Jewish people. Against the backdrop of frequent pogroms, persecutions, and forced migrations, Jews sought to preserve their cultural and religious identity. In these conditions, the importance of leaders like the Gaon grew many times over. Their authority and knowledge were essential for maintaining communities and passing traditions on to future generations. Thus, examining the life and legacy of the Vilna Gaon is important not only for understanding 18th-century Jewish thought but also for assessing how his ideas continue to influence the modern Jewish world.

The incredible story of Count Potocki, who became a Jew and was burned for his faith

Sudervės St. 28, 07191 Vilnius, Lithuania

Among the people who converted to Judaism, there were many prominent figures. For many, such a step meant signing their own death sentence. Count Valentin Potocki (Ger-Tsedek) — a Polish nobleman who became a Jew — a young man disillusioned with Catholicism, is an example of such a proselyte. He was burned at the stake by the verdict of the Vilnius church court for converting to Judaism.

The Violin of Jascha Heifetz

Vilniaus St. 25, 01402 Vilnius, Lithuania

There have always been plenty of them, little Jewish boys with violins in their hands, whom weighty and authoritative masters helped to grow. But few managed to rise so boldly, live so brightly, and die so lonely, leaving behind an immortal memory. In 1901, Jascha Heifetz was born in Vilnius, recognized as one of the greatest violinists of the 20th century. Jascha Heifetz’s biography is divided into two parts: a small but outstanding early Russian period and a great overseas success. Europe and America could follow the mature violinist, but knew nothing about his childhood, which was impressive. Heifetz was literally made for biographers.

Vilnius Ghetto

Žydų St. 3, 01131 Vilnius, Lithuania

The Vilnius Ghetto was one of the Jewish ghettos established by the Nazis in Lithuania during World War II. During its two years of existence, its population, which numbered about 40,000 people, was almost completely annihilated. Only a few hundred inmates managed to escape by fleeing to the forests and joining Soviet partisans or hiding with sympathetic local residents.

Shnipishki Jewish Cemetery

Olimpiečių St. 1, 09200 Vilnius, Lithuania

The first Jewish cemetery in Vilnius, established in 1487 and closed in 1831. It is now inactive. The area covers the entire territory where the current Sports Palace stands, which was built directly on the cemetery grounds. The cemetery land was originally legally purchased by the Jewish community and belongs to it. (After Lithuania regained independence, despite new laws, the deed of sale-purchase for the land on which the cemetery is located has never been revoked.)