New Silvia

State Museum-Reserve, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196625

Paths and trails run throughout the area, winding around the ponds, sometimes opening onto clearings, then disappearing again into the dense forest... Indeed, is this a forest or a park? All around are tall, gloomy fir trees, their thick, shaggy branches touching the ground. The trees come right up to the edge of the ravine, and below, in a narrow crevice, lies a pond. Its water is dark as black. Following the contours of the shore, a small path winds along. All around is forest wilderness. Step slightly aside—the moss cushions your feet. You want to lie down beside a tall pine, rest your head on its mossy roots, and watch as its top sways somewhere high above.

Crossing the Ruined Bridge—this is how this cascade is sometimes called—we quietly enter New Sylvia. Before entering it, on a wide platform surrounded by lilac bushes, stands a bronze statue of Apollo Musagetes. The leader of the Muses, dressed in long, light garments, is inspiredly playing the lyre. Although the image of the instrument has not been preserved, it seems that Apollo’s flexible fingers are plucking the strings. A laurel wreath crowns his raised head.

Two paths, winding around the sculpture, lead deeper into New Sylvia. Narrow straight paths are bordered by acacia bushes, behind which stand mighty centuries-old firs and pines. There is almost no gap between the trees. Twilight. Only high above the head does a strip of sky lighten, and here and there, where a sunbeam breaks through the thicket, the pine trunks blush pink. It is always quiet here, and only above, among the branches, the wind hums faintly, and the trees creak slightly as they sway. Occasionally, a cuckoo makes itself heard, or suddenly the tapping of a woodpecker is heard. But these rare sounds only emphasize the mysterious silence. You forget that you are in a park, that not far from here there are wide bright alleys bustling with crowds and activity.

How did the artist manage, on a relatively small area of 20.5 hectares, moreover intersected by alleys, to create the impression of a large, dense forest? For this, he uses a number of interesting techniques. Five main roads are laid out in one direction. Like long green corridors, they run through the entire area. Sometimes they connect with small squares and then diverge again. And although the roads are close to each other, they are separated by densely growing trees and tall trimmed shrubs between them. By slightly deepening the paths into the ground, Brenna achieves the effect that the trees seem taller than they actually are. In addition, the alleys, despite their overall similarity, differ in width, and therefore in the degree of illumination. All this diversifies the walk in New Sylvia, creating the impression that you are in a dense forest.

And only the road that runs along the very edge by the coastal slope is always relatively bright. Walking along it is especially pleasant in sunny weather. To your right rises a dark pine forest, and to the left, through the gaps between the trees, the brightly lit cheerful riverbanks are visible.

Another turn—and the path suddenly leads to a small hill. We stop before a column of pink marble called “The End of the World.” This is what it began to be called in the early 19th century after it was moved here. (Previously, it stood near the palace behind the Triple Linden Alley). At that time, this was the end of the park. Standing alone among the trees, the column enhances the feeling of remoteness of this corner.

A barely noticeable path leads us to the most secluded part of New Sylvia. Here, where darkness always reigns, is one of the most remarkable architectural structures of Pavlovsk—the Mausoleum of Paul.

In the first quarter of the 19th century, new sections appeared in Pavlovsk Park according to Gonzago’s design: the Valley of Ponds, Red Valley, White Birch, and Parade Field. In scale, they surpass everything created here before.

Pietro Gonzago, a decorator of the imperial theaters, invited to Pavlovsk in 1799, was initially Brenna’s assistant, but after Paul’s death, he became the head of all work in the park. The artist devoted more than a quarter of a century to its creation.

The Valley of Ponds became the name of the park area in the southeastern part of the Great Star. Here, on the site of forest ravines, ponds were dug according to Gonzago’s design. Their sizes and shore outlines vary. The depth of water filling and the nature of the surrounding vegetation are not uniform everywhere. This largely determined the diversity of landscapes. Having preserved the main forest mass almost untouched, the artist introduced only individual “pictures” into it.

Paths and trails running throughout the area, winding around the ponds, sometimes lead to clearings, then disappear again into the forest thicket... Indeed, is this a forest or a park? Tall gloomy firs are everywhere, their dense shaggy branches touching the ground. The trees approach the very ravine, and below, in a narrow crevice, lies a pond. Its water is dark as black. Following the shore’s outline, a small path winds. Around is forest wilderness. Step aside a little—the moss is underfoot. You want to lie down near a tall pine, put your head on its mossy roots, and watch how its top sways somewhere high above.

But ahead again glimmers the smooth surface of a pond. You take a few steps and involuntarily squint from the sun and bright greenery. The forest, having retreated, opens a narrow glade covered with lush grass. In its green frame lies another pond with low even banks. The water, reflecting the sky and low willows, seems light. But such lyrical scenes are rare here. In the Valley of Ponds, gloomy, severe landscapes prevail.

The Red Valley has a different, lighter and more joyful appearance.

Descend to the Pil Tower and look downstream along the Slavyanka. Far, far away, the winding, sparkling river is visible like a snake. The slopes of its banks here are equally high, covered with dense coniferous forest. They limit a long, even valley on both sides, not accidentally called red, meaning beautiful. It is always somehow especially quiet here, perhaps because the high slopes hold back not only sounds but also gusts of wind...

The path runs along the shore. Right at the water, tall grass sways slightly, and around are wildflowers—a whole sea of daisies and bellflowers. Here and there stand centuries-old oaks and silvery willows. Their sprawling crowns form islands of shade in this kingdom of the sun. In the distance, the steep arch of the humped Novosilviy Bridge is visible. Simple, built of gray porous stone, once with railings made of birch trunks, it complements the landscape well.

In creating this part of the park, Gonzago largely preserved the natural appearance of the valley. The artist seemed to have just brushed over it, shading some parts and highlighting others with bright strokes. On the slopes, he left tall dark trees, as if pushing the banks apart. The valley seemed narrower and deeper, and the willows planted by the water, in contrast to the dark forest, appeared lighter and more elegant.

Reaching the Novosilviy Bridge, we notice two half-ruined arches on the forest edge. One of them leads to a small room whose vaulted walls are partially covered with earth. Nearby are the remains of a stone staircase with a small platform; “broken statues, bas-reliefs, cornices, columns of rare marbles, peeking out from the grass and covered with moss, represented to the imagination a vivid notion of the ruins of Greece, still breathing grandeur and glory.” This is how the writer and ethnographer of the early 19th century Pavel Svinin describes these ruins, created by Cameron in 1801.

Sources:

https://www.spb-guide.ru/page_20053.htm

http://museums.artyx.ru/books/item/f00/s00/z0000018/st001.shtml

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More stories from Petersburg, Suburbs: The Secrets of Pavlovsk

Pavel's Big Toy

Mariinskaya St., 4, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

On December 19, 1796, Emperor Paul, having ascended the throne, issued a decree for the construction of a fortress on the site of the Marienthal Palace.

Saw Tower

Krasnogo Molodtsa, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196625

The Saw Tower is one of the poetic pavilions in the park, designed in a pastoral-romantic style. The pavilion was a tribute to the fashion of its time and served as a place for brief rest during a long walk through the park.

Saw tower

Krasnogo Molodtsa, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196625

The Saw Tower is one of the poetic pavilions in the park, designed in a pastoral-romantic style. The pavilion was a tribute to the fashion of its time and served as a place for brief rest during a long walk through the park.

The Benefactor Husband or The Mausoleum of Paul I

Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196625

The Mausoleum of Paul I is not the emperor’s tomb. Paul I, like all members of the imperial family, is buried in the Peter and Paul Cathedral in Saint Petersburg. In one of her letters, Empress Maria Feodorovna refers to it as a "Monument," and in the contract with the architect Carlo Domenico Visconti, she calls it a "Temple." The modern name is "To the Benefactor-Spouse" or "Mausoleum of Paul I."

Deer Bridge

Rozovopavilionnaya Alley, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

The sculptures of graceful animals – two pairs of reclining deer – were acquired for Pavlovsk by Grand Duke Nikolai Konstantinovich in 1875.

Pink Pavilion

Pavlovsk, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

On the southwestern edge of the Belye Berezy district, at the beginning of the Rose Pavilion Alley, laid out from the Parade Field to the Circle of White Birches, stands one of the most poetic structures of Pavlovsk Park – the Rose Pavilion.

Obelisk in Marienthal Park

Sadovaya St., 20, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

Pavlovskoye began to be built in 1777.

Niobides

Rose Pavilion Alley, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

Four of the twelve paths radiating from the center and leading from the square to the Starosilvian ponds feature several statues of the Niobids fleeing from Apollo with a bow.

Old Silvia

Unnamed Road, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

"Everything here involuntarily draws us to reflection," Zhukovsky wrote about this corner of the park. More than once he stood by this half-ruined fence and listened to the sound of the cascading water.

Pavilion Temple of Friendship

Unnamed Road, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

The Temple of Friendship is Charles Cameron's very first work in the Pavlovsk landscape park.

Monument to Beloved Parents

Unnamed Road, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

Originally, this was a memorial pavilion for Sister Maria Fyodorovna - Frederika.

Large stone staircase

Sadovaya St., 20, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

The staircase was designed according to the project of architect Vincenzo Brenna, who skillfully utilized the character of the landscape in its creation. The staircase consists of 64 steps and leads from the Pavlovsk Palace down to the valley of the Slavyanka River. The large stone staircase on the steep riverbank slope is adorned with two pairs of reclining lions.

The three-flight staircase of Marienthal Park

Sadovaya St., 20, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

The stone staircase from the treillage to the pond was built by V. Brenna in 1793; it had six marble statues on the side ledges and initially the same number of lions.

Colonnade of Apollo

Sadovaya St., 17, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

The image of the ancient god Apollo was meant to express the idea of the triumph of nature and art in the park, and Cameron constructed the Temple of Apollo in the spirit of ancient buildings.

Amphitheater

al. Green Woman, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196625

The amphitheater is also called the "place of the first date" or the "Monument to Nika," and in olden times it was also known as the "Belvedere."

Dairy

Sadovaya St., 20 lit. V, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

Originally, it was the empress's farm, built by Cameron modeled after the "Dairy" at the estate of the Duke of Württemberg.

Cast Iron (Nikolaevsky) Gates

Konyushennaya St., 1, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

Cast iron gates on Sadovaya Street – a gift made by Emperor Nicholas I to his mother Maria Feodorovna for her birthday on October 14, 1826.

Centaur Bridge

Sadovaya St., 20, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196621

One of the most beautiful bridges in Pavlovsk Park is the Centaurs Bridge.

Musical Station of the Tsarskoye Selo Railway

Staroshaleinaya Alley, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

In 1836-1837, the main line of the Tsarskoye Selo Railway was laid through the territory of Pavlovsky Park. A clearing was made through the park, and an embankment was constructed almost up to Sadovaya Street.

The Church of Saint Mary Magdalene - the first stone building in Pavlovsk

Sadovaya St., 17, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

The Church of Saint Mary Magdalene is an Orthodox temple in Pavlovsk, the first stone building in the city. The church was founded in May 1781 in the presence of Grand Duke Pavel Petrovich and his family. The construction of the church was funded by Empress Maria Feodorovna. The project was designed by Giacomo Quarenghi. All the stonework on the church was completed on September 12 (23), 1781, but the consecration of the church by Metropolitan Gavriil (Petrov) in the name of Saint Mary Magdalene took place only on September 6 (17), 1784.

Kurakin Almshouse

3 Prosveshcheniya St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

The Kurakin Almshouse is an architectural monument built in Pavlovsk by architect Leone Adamini at the behest of Prince Alexey Kurakin to provide shelter and a dignified life with full state support for disabled veterans of the Patriotic War of 1812. This idea came to the prince in 1819, construction of the building began in 1820, and the first residents moved in in 1821. By 1831, 16 war heroes—officers and enlisted men—were living in the almshouse for disabled veterans.

Gostiny Dvor

Peschanıy per., 5/13, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 196620

The growth of the city contributed to the activation of trade, while special attention was paid to the appearance of establishments intended for this purpose. In August 1832, the director of Pavlovsk petitioned for the gradual reconstruction of the shops used during fairs, which had “become completely dilapidated.” According to the report, Mikhail Pavlovich decreed: I approve, but it is desirable that the reconstruction be done on both sides (south and north), for without this, everything will be an eyesore on one side only. If this cannot be done in one year, then at least in two.”

Column "End of the World"

MFW7+CR Pushkinsky District, Saint Petersburg, Russia

The "End of the World" Column is a monument of park architecture from the late 18th century. In 1784, along the axis of the Triple Linden Alley at its exit onto the square, a marble column was installed according to Cameron's design, and the entire area began to be called the Column Square. A few years later, cast-iron gates appeared here, completing the design of the square. An image of this place can be seen on the painting of an antique fan from the museum's collection.

Konstantinovsky Palace in Pavlovsk Park

MFQC+H9 Pushkinsky District, Saint Petersburg, Russia

The time of the creation of the Konstantin Palace dates back to the late 18th century. The construction of the palace began in the Catherine Park of Tsarskoye Selo in November 1792. The palace was built from November 1792 to June 1793 according to the design of architect Giacomo Quarenghi. It is known that it was a rectangular two-story building, 58 meters long and 23 meters wide. The central part of the main facade, with three Venetian (triple) windows, was crowned with a pediment. Ten Ionic half-columns were installed between the windows. The exterior of the palace was clad with boards, the walls were painted yellow, and the roof was green. The years of the Konstantin Palace's existence in Tsarskoye Selo represent only the first stage of its history. On August 19, 1797, when Paul I ascended the throne, a decree was issued to move the Konstantin Palace with its kitchen to Pavlovsk. The relocation began in February 1798 and lasted more than five months. The construction of the palace was carried out under the supervision of architect Brenna.