The Old Woman's House (Casa de la Vieja)

965H+7G Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

As for the name Casa de la Vieja, it is known that when Stevens visited the ruins of Uxmal in the nineteenth century, at the foot of the pyramid there still stood a crude female sculpture, which is now identified as an image of the goddess of earth and vegetation. However, the locals identified her as an old witch, so the American researcher followed the custom and named it accordingly.

Approximately 80 meters southeast of the governor's palace site is a complex that has not been reconstructed and consists of a pyramid and several buildings. The pyramid, which once had a staircase on the western side, had a platform on top with something believed to have been a large building, possibly consisting of two rows of three rooms each. A more precise statement about this is impossible, as excavations have not yet been conducted.

Halfway up the pyramid on its northwest flank is the actual House of the Old Woman, which belongs to the early Puuc style and is therefore one of the oldest surviving buildings. It appears that this building stands on its own smaller pyramid, older than the larger one behind it. The building, whose northern half has collapsed, had two rooms arranged one behind the other, accessible through an entrance on the western side. The outer and inner doors were closed with wooden beams. Also notable is the partially preserved roof ridge, which on the visible side (to the west) has numerous protruding spikes for attaching molded figures. The second roof surface was probably built for the roof ridge, which is about 14 cm higher than the first. It is unknown whether this was a technical step or if the roof ridge was installed later.

To the north of the House of the Old Woman, on the same low terrace, there is a heavily ruined building consisting of three rooms. On the core of a stone quarry attached to the rear, there is a second floor with a single room, accessed from the west by a staircase that wraps around the facade of the first floor. From the passage under the staircase along the facade, the entrance leads to the middle room. The wooden beam spanning the entrance is still in place.

An interesting legend concerns the old woman who was the mother of the dwarf and who is represented in Uxmal in a hidden garden full of statues of penises. The mother of the dwarf was the goddess Ix Chel, considered the Moon Goddess by the Maya, and here she has her own pyramid and corresponding temple, but they are hidden from curious eyes and have not yet been touched by archaeologists. It is not surprising that Ix Chel was linked to the birth of the dwarf ruler, as she was the patroness of childbirth, midwives, and mothers. She was considered the progenitor of all living things, being the wife of Itzamna (the Creator God).

The legend of the old woman and her dwarf son who became the Ruler can be read here https://reveal.world/story/piramida-volshebnika-piramide-del-adivino. But what happened to his elderly mother?

No, do not think that the ungrateful son forgot her after becoming the Ruler. No, she simply disappeared. But legends say that in a certain village there is a deep well leading to an underground passage. Near the well, by the river, in the shade of a large tree, sits the old woman with a snake coiled beside her. She sells water but does not take money for it. "But be careful before taking water from her, because she wants your children in return, innocent children whom her snake devours."

There is a very unexpected connection between the House of the Old Woman in Mexican Uxmal and the Silver Age of Russian poetry. It was visited by Konstantin Dmitrievich Balmont, who wrote the following in his book In the Lands of the Sun: Letters to a Private Person from a Round-the-World Journey:

“June 11. Among the ruins of Uxmal there is one building with a basement where I experienced a unique sensation. I do not know who, but someone foolishly called this building Casa de la Vieja (House of the Old Woman). Just as foolishly they considered the wonderful Sorceress of Rider Haggard old. Do you remember his striking novel 'She'? — I appreciate Haggard more than ever.

I entered the basement half-bent, literally shrinking in height by half — otherwise, you cannot enter the basement. In the corridor half-filled with rubble, by the left wall, I saw only one statue, a stern face, a figure up to the waist. It seemed, and perhaps it was so, probably so — it seemed that the lower half of this figure’s body had sunk into the ground. When I approached this face closely, I was overcome by a strange excitement, I would say reminiscent. Instead of the old face I expected to see, and instead of the ugly visage, one of those I was accustomed to here, a young and eternal face looked at me, young and beautiful. ‘Yes, it is she, she,’ I thought to myself, ‘She who must be obeyed.’

Sorceress, it is strange for me to see you like this.

People told me that you

Live — mercilessly destroying the living,

That your old features are terrible: —

You look so tenderly, you beckon lovingly,

And you are full of beauty.”

In fact, regarding the name Casa de la Vieja, it is known that when Stephens visited the ruins of Uxmal in the nineteenth century, at the foot of the pyramid there still stood a crude female sculpture, now identified as a depiction of the goddess of earth and vegetation. However, the locals identified her as an old sorceress, so the American explorer followed custom and named her so.

https://xyuandbeyond.com/mayan-legend-templo-de-los-falos/

Dmitry Viktorovich Ivanov: Architecture, History, and Art of Uxmal

Miroslav Sting: Mysteries of Indian Pyramids

Konstantin Dmitrievich Balmont: In the Lands of the Sun: Letters to a Private Person from a Round-the-World Journey

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More stories from Maya Cities of Mexico: Uxmal

Foundation and History of Uxmal

965J+XJ Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

Uxmal is located in the second main area of the Maya habitat on the Yucatan Peninsula, called Puuc (literally - the Land of Low Hills). According to archaeological data, settlements in this territory had existed for at least 200 years by that time. The name Uxmal, according to the most common version, means "thrice built," which likely indicates that the city underwent multiple large-scale reconstructions. The preserved buildings, such as the Quadrangle of the Nunnery, the Governor’s House, the House of the Turtles, and the later upper temples of the Magician’s Pyramid, are among the finest architectural works of the ancient Maya world. All these names undoubtedly belong to modern times, having been assigned based on the guesses of the discoverers. The true purpose of the buildings remains a mystery. The date of Uxmal’s final abandonment is unknown and controversial, although the Maya probably remained there longer than in their southern cities, which fell approximately starting from the 9th century.

Wizard's Pyramid (Piramide del Adivino)

966J+84 Uxmal, Yucatán, Mexico

The pyramid got its name from the legend of a dwarf wizard, the son of a witch, who hatched from an egg already grown. Determined to compete in power with the ruler of the city, the Dwarf Wizard built a huge pyramid in just one night.

Women's Monastery (CuadrÁngulo de las Monjas)

966H+JP Uxmal, Yucatan, Mexico

A very interesting complex of four buildings is called the Women's Monastery, or if translated in detail from Spanish, the Quadrangle of the Nuns. This name was given by Spanish explorers who thought that the ancient structures closely resembled a Catholic convent. Scholars who have studied Uxmal almost unanimously lean toward the idea (and such unanimity in judgments about Maya monuments is quite rare) that the "Women's Monastery" was indeed a real monastery, a dwelling place for Maya priests, possibly priestesses as well. Here they likely lived in the secluded cells of their magnificent home, from where they would go out to perform rituals in the sanctuaries of the Pyramid of the Magician, and to which they returned after completing the ceremonies. And when they looked out from the Monastery, they saw on the opposite slope, on three terraces, the Palace of the Governors shining under the scorching Yucatan sun, the residence of the "great men" of this remarkable indigenous city.

Governor's Palace (El Palacio del Gobernador)

965H+FG Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The building that the ruling Shiv dynasty made their residence, and which throughout the subsequent history of Uxmal has been so closely associated with the name of this powerful dynasty, was, as can be assumed, constructed during the earlier, preceding "second" era of the Thrice-Built city of Uxmal. This diamond of Maya architecture is usually referred to in specialized literature as the "Governor's Palace," the "Shiv Palace," or the "Palace of the Rulers."

Temple of the Phalluses (Templo de los Falos)

965J+53 Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

Phalluses in jewelry are associated with an important figure in the Uxmal pantheon and simultaneously with the legend of the origin of its rulers and the city's structures. They are connected by the legend of an old woman who was the mother of a dwarf and at the same time the goddess Ix Chel, considered the Moon Goddess among the Maya.

House of Turtles (Casa de las Tortugas)

965H+RG, 97884 Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The building is named after the images of turtles on the upper cornice. It is constructed in the classic Puuc style. From the north, a large staircase leads to the House of the Turtles. The House of the Turtles is one of the most simply decorated temples in the city; the frieze of short half-columns, resembling "rolled scrolls," that runs around the temple beneath the turtles is characteristic of the Puuc style. The closely spaced columns resemble wooden posts used in the walls of village houses.

Dovecote, or Pigeon House (Casa de las Palomas)

El Palomar, Uxmal, Yuc., Mexico

Presumably a ceremonial building dedicated to Kukulkan. Most likely, ceremonies similar to those held in temples were conducted here. It was constructed from rubble and limestone during the early period of the civilization. Like many other structures, the exterior and interior walls of the Dovecote were carved, and all the walls were painted in bright colors. It was also believed to have been built for tracking the movement of celestial bodies and supernatural forces. The building received its modern name due to its characteristic stepped roof, which reminded archaeologists of a dovecote. Unfortunately, the structure is very poorly preserved; only a fragment of one wall has survived to the present day.

Main Pyramid (Piramide Mayor)

El Palomar, Uxmal, Yuc., Mexico

The main pyramid of Uxmal is a freestanding structure located behind the Governor's Palace. Its base is square-shaped with a side length of 80 meters. In the 8th century, there was a building on top of the pyramid, accessible by a staircase on the northern side. This building had five rooms in the back row and three in the front.

Altar Stone (Adoratorio de la Picota)

965H+CM Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

On the esplanade in front of the Governor's Palace, there are two very interesting monuments.

Ballgame court (Juego de Pelota)

Uxmal Archaeological Zone, Uxmal, Yuc., Mexico

Why the game can lead a person to the abyss, why players need corsets, and other essential knowledge that can be gleaned from the sports activities of the Maya

Birds' Courtyard (Cuadrángulo de los Pájaros in Uxmal)

966H+9X Ushmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The Birds Quadrilateral is formed by four buildings enclosing a closed inner courtyard. On the eastern side is the Seer's Pyramid, which serves as the focal point of the quadrilateral and this sector of the settlement.

House of the Iguana (Casa de la Iguana)

Uxmal Archaeological Zone, Uxmal, Yuc., Mexico

The Iguana House lies south of the Bird Square. It consists of a single long portico supported by eleven columns and oriented to the west. During the excavations, the building was found to be completely destroyed, but it has now been reconstructed. Therefore, nothing definite can be said about the decoration of the facade or other features of the structure.