Krimulda Church and the Road to the Stok Moron Estate

The Krimulda Church was built in 1205; it was one of the first churches in Livonia and the very first stone church in this region, and despite many changes, it has survived to this day. It does not impress with the luxury of its interior; the true wealth here lies in the many events associated with this place.

There is a legend about the church’s location. Allegedly, it was originally planned to be built in a completely different place, on Kurmish Hill, but construction there did not go well: what was built during the day was destroyed overnight. Guards were posted, but they fell asleep every time, and in the morning the stones brought for building were found thrown down the slope of the hill. Then it was decided that the place was unsuitable for a church and another location had to be chosen. Eventually, the stones were loaded, oxen were harnessed, and they were led onto the road. The church was built where the oxen turned off to graze on the grass.

At that time, the leader of the local Livonian people of Turaida was the chieftain Kaupo, who, during the difficult times of discord and wars between the Livs and Baltic tribes, and later the crusaders, decided to side with the crusaders and Bishop Albert, thereby facilitating the introduction of Catholicism in Latvia. The church was built by Kaupo; this decision was preceded by his journey to Europe and a meeting with Pope Innocent III.

Kaupo died in 1217 during a campaign of Germans, Livs, and Latgalians in Estonia. Heinrich’s chronicle mentions that Kaupo was buried in Kubesele. At the foot of the Kubesele hillfort, where the parsonage now stands, there is a mound considered to be Kaupo’s burial site, although there is a theory that he is buried inside the church itself. In 2001, a memorial stone to Kaupo was unveiled at the foot of the hill.

The church is a monument of architecture of national significance. In 1205, preacher Allobrand founded the church in the Liv-inhabited Kubesele, near the burned-down Kaupo’s castle. By 1613, only four walls of the church remained. Restoration work began in 1643 and continued in 1699–1701. Until the second half of the 17th century, the church’s architecture was simple: a building with a gable roof covered with red tiles and small deep windows. At the end of the 17th century, a bell was placed on a hillock overgrown with willows. Only in 1699 did the master Wede create the characteristic spires of the then Vidzeme churches, topped with an orb and a weathercock. In the 18th century, the parsonage was built. Extensive renovations took place in 1865.

In 1902–05, a massive stone tower 46 meters high was erected on the site of the wooden tower, designed by August Reinberg. During World War I, the tower was shelled and restored in 1924.

In 1964, after the death of the local pastor, the church community ceased to exist. The church was handed over to the Krimulda village council, which did not save it from looting and vandalism—the church was used as a warehouse for mineral fertilizers. Only in the 1980s did the administration of the Gauja National Park begin restoration work on the ruined church, and in 1988 the church community resumed its activities and continued the restoration efforts.

The current pastor, Austris Ravinš, is also connected to a mystical story. Having never been to Krimulda before, Austris recognized this white church. Once, a long time ago, he saw it—not in a dream, but as if awake—and saw himself inside, engaged in a very important task. Austris believes this was a vision. One way or another, he began visiting Krimulda frequently. Then, drastically changing his life, he enrolled in the theological faculty and became a Lutheran pastor.

Another local attraction is the only church labyrinth in Latvia, laid out of stone near the church: in 2002, Pastor Ravinš built here an exact copy of the labyrinth from the Chartres Cathedral (by the way, a contemporary of the Krimulda church). This is not a tourist attraction but a means of self-work, a symbol of a person’s path to God.

Next to our willow stands its sister tree. This is how the trees and the road along which the carriage traveled look from the church side.

In the film "The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson," episode "The Acquaintance," this area played the role of Surrey; the road past the church led to the Stock-Moron estate. The carriage with Holmes and Watson passes right by the walls of the Krimulda Lutheran Church.

Behind Holmes, white gate posts are visible. They have not been preserved here, but similar ones remain on the other side of the church. To the left, where there was a lawn, there is now a parking lot. A path leads to the parking lot, and the old road has been asphalted. The stocky tree near which Holmes and Watson got out of the carriage (seemingly a willow) is the most damaged object. Its condition suggests that in a couple of years, the church will be fully visible from this point.

Next to the parking lot—where the cameraman was—there is now a drainage ditch full of water, so filming has to be done practically from the ditch. Only a stump remains of the tall spruce, and the winding tree in the center of the frame has broken off and become shorter.

Sources:

https://www.221b.ru/geo/1-krimulda.htm

https://renatar.livejournal.com/255201.html

https://renatar.livejournal.com/247966.html (Renata Rimša)

www.tourism.sigulda.lv

Photos – Renata Rimša

Photos – Larisa Shestakova, 2009

https://dubikvit.livejournal.com/10654.html