Mass burial sites invariably stir the imagination of the living and often turn into real open-air museums. Such is the necropolis of Dargavs – a peculiar ancient cemetery located in the Caucasus mountains.

The history of Dargavs dates back to the times of the Tatar-Mongol yoke, and even earlier – in the first millennium AD, there was an old Alan burial ground here. The necropolis is a historical and cultural monument that still amazes with its unusual architecture and contents. The age of this mournful place is about 700 years. The high-mountain village of Dargavs, where the cemetery of the same name is located, is a small settlement with about one and a half hundred inhabitants. The locals never go to the necropolis territory at night under any pretext – only during daylight hours (to mow grass, tidy up), and they never peek into the tiny windows of the tombs so as not to disturb the peace of the deceased.

The Dargavs necropolis was deliberately built on infertile land. It consists of small houses with unusual, multi-tiered roofs. This configuration is not accidental – during rains or snowfalls, moisture literally flows off the house. Inside each structure, there can be up to a hundred deceased. The doors of the houses are so small that an adult cannot squeeze through them, but the interior contents are clearly visible.

In the high-mountain conditions, bodies naturally mummify, and objects are maximally preserved, so Dargavs represents a unique collection of utensils and clothing of the ancient Ossetians.

There are 97 tombs of various sizes along the streets of Dargavs. Inside, strange boat-shaped coffins can be seen, which initially shocked scientists since there is no sea nearby. Most likely, this reflects the local belief that the deceased must cross the river of oblivion (remember the Styx) to enter the realm of the dead. In total, about 10,000 people found rest in the crypts of Dargavs (North Ossetia).

Where does such a strange name come from? What does the word “Dargavs” mean? In Ossetian, it translates either as “protector of the gorge” or “long meadow.” Both meanings somewhat suit this remarkable place. Near the crypts, a mound of coins was found, as it is believed that if a coin hits a stone, it means the soul of the deceased has reached the heavens.

The last burials here took place in the early 19th century. Over 7 centuries, the necropolis has been well preserved and is very popular among tourists. Many myths and legends surround Dargavs, attracting lovers of ancient history and outright mysticism even more.

Dargavs is a city of the dead, spared by history, so we now have the opportunity to wander its narrow streets and examine the moss-covered crypts. But what the villagers tell about the cemetery’s origin stirs the imagination and is somewhat frightening.

The legend says that once a girl of unprecedented beauty came to the village of Dargavs. All the men of the village left their families and fought among themselves for the right to possess the beauty. Failing to succeed, they turned to the elders, but the elders, seeing the beauty, also proved to be lustful. The enraged women demanded the witch be expelled from the village, but the men decided to act on the principle “if I can’t have you, no one will” and killed the beauty. After that, the village of Dargavs was struck by a cruel plague epidemic. But the earth would not accept the bodies of the dead, so the locals decided to arrange above-ground burials.

There is another story about the Dargavs necropolis, of more recent origin. It is known that in the 18th century, during another plague that was decimating the villagers, a piercing inscription appeared on one of the crypts: “Look upon us with love, for we were once like you, and you will be like us.” This phrase leaves no one indifferent. It was inscribed by those who came here to die so as not to infect their kin with the deadly disease. The city of Dargavs in North Ossetia is perhaps one of the most mysterious places on the planet. Archaeologists continuously find many remarkable items on the necropolis grounds that sometimes baffle researchers. For example, it is not entirely clear why the Ossetians buried their dead in boat-like coffins when there is not a single river nearby. Attempts to explain this oddity have not ceased to this day.

Among other things, at various times archaeologists have found relatively well-preserved Eastern fabrics, tiled snuffboxes, antique dishes, and piles of coins in the Dargavs necropolis. By the way, the last find is easily explained – according to tradition, during funerals, relatives threw a coin from a hill. If it hit the surface of any stone, it was a sign that the soul had found peace in the heavens.

The crypts in Dargavs are places distinguished by gloom and a mystical aura. But the necropolis is not alone – other interesting objects can be seen nearby. Above the ancient Ossetian cemetery rises the watchtower of the Alikovs. Currently, the structure is in a state of disrepair, and climbing it is strictly not recommended. But externally, the tower guarding the city of the dead Dargavs in North Ossetia still looks impressive and beautiful, perfectly blending into the surrounding landscape.

Bydyry (Dargavs was called this in ancient times) is a place rich in legends. As an echo of one of them, a remarkable structure was erected at a great height, which deserves more detailed mention. The myth says that the fortification was built by a man who gained a very formidable enemy but tried to defend himself against him. The attempt succeeded, but it did not bring happiness to the builder.

The executioner’s tower near Dargavs is clear proof of the wise proverb: “If you want to take revenge, dig two graves.” Once, a man who killed a member of a powerful family decided to hide from the victim’s relatives’ revenge behind the strong walls of a tower he himself had built. Gradually, from the height of the tower’s loopholes, he shot all his enemies, but with the last victim, the executioner’s meaning of life also left him.

To this day, the Executioner’s Tower stands on the Shau Khok rock, overlooking the village of Dargavs from the depths of a deep cave located near the reservoir of the Gizeldon Hydroelectric Power Station. Looking closely at the stone mass, it is especially amazing that, according to the myth, a man built the monumental fortress alone, dragging heavy stones into the natural niche at night.

It is not recommended to take photos inside the crypts, as the locals consider such amusements a threat to the traveler’s well-being and even life in the future.

So what is Dargavs really like? Pyramid-shaped tombs of underground and semi-underground types with slate roofs topped with pointed stones stand silently, reminding the living of times long gone.

It is worth noting that the dead town of Dargavs was always a rather expensive resting place – just one cornerstone cost a whole sheep! Typically, crypts with gable, flat, and hipped roofs belonged to wealthy Ossetian families. The thing is, the mortar used to build the crypts was mixed with sour cream, eggs, and milk, with the mandatory addition of lime. The ancient mortar recipe allowed achieving extraordinary strength of the structure (since the necropolis has survived to this day, this axiom needs no proof).

The crypts were designed with a natural ventilation system that promoted better mummification of bodies – many remains have been preserved to this day. The village of Dargavs sometimes suffered from wars or epidemics, so the residents had to create several tiers in the graves to freely bury their dead.

Sources:

https://club-voshod.com/info/pohodnoe_info/dostoprimechatelnosti/severnaya_osetiya/dargavs/