Ruins of the Lutheran Church in Lahdenpohja (Karelia) - Museum City of Angels

Lenina St., 60, Lahdenpohya, Republic of Karelia, Russia, 186730

The former settlement of Yakkima is located three kilometers from Lahdenpohja. Here, on the hill adjacent to Church Hill, stands an unusual monumental structure — the Yakkima Church, built in the mid-19th century by local Finnish Lutherans.

Yakkima is a former Finnish settlement that was once larger than Lahdenpohja. It had nearly 10,000 residents, while Lahdenpohja had only about 2,000 at that time. In the first half of the 17th century, the local population decided on the necessity of building a church here. The first building was wooden, but it stood for a relatively short time. Only after that did the construction of a stone church begin, the walls of which have survived to this day. It was built according to the design of the famous architect Carl Engel, and the funds for construction were provided by Count Alexander Kushelev-Bezborodko, who owned these lands at the time. Now only the walls remain of the building, but once it was the largest church in Karelia. Construction of the church began in 1845, and by 1851 it was consecrated. Since then, services began here. It was designed to accommodate 3,000 parishioners, but at some services, according to historians, up to 7,000 people attended simultaneously (naturally, without social distancing—because before 2020, no one ever thought about it). These figures are comparable to the capacity of St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg, which was designed for 9,000 parishioners.

The official name of the church is the Lutheran Church of the Yakkima Parish. And, as we have already established, Yakkima is the name of the settlement where it was located. The church survived both the First and Second World Wars, as well as the Civil and Soviet-Finnish wars. Interestingly, even when this territory passed to the USSR, no one deliberately destroyed the building. However, it should be noted that after the Great Patriotic War, the building was no longer used as a church. During the war years, the area was fenced with barbed wire and turned into a prisoner-of-war camp. After the war ended, the building was used as an auto repair shop.

Later, it was divided into two floors, with a student dormitory on the second floor and a grocery warehouse on the first. The building remained in this state until a terrible fire in 1977 destroyed the roof, bell tower, floors, leaving only bare walls of what was once the largest and most majestic Lutheran church…

After that, it was decided not to restore the church, and for a long time it was simply abandoned, gradually falling into neglect and final ruin.

In the 1990s, the local Finnish population tried to restore the church, but there were not enough funds at that time. However, they managed to conserve what remained of the building and tidy up the cemetery located on the territory near the church. Currently, there are talks about a full restoration of the building, but no specific dates have been set yet. So now is the best time to explore the ruins of this Lutheran church… The church served its parishioners for just under a century, then passed to the USSR following the Soviet-Finnish war. After the transfer, the building was turned into a prisoner-of-war camp, fenced with barbed wire, and watchtowers were installed at the corners. Afterward, the Yakkima church in Lahdenpohja was used as a dormitory and a city trade warehouse. In 1977, the wooden roof, bell tower, and floors burned down, leaving only bare brick walls of its former glory. For about twenty years, the church stood exposed to the elements and cold. In the early 1990s, a granite monument to Finnish soldiers was returned here, and a cross was installed. Thanks to active assistance from Finland, the church walls were covered with tin from above, protecting them from wind and water.

Right behind the church is an interesting natural landmark — a 200-year-old pine tree. Under this tree, Elias Lönnrot, the famous Finnish folklorist and linguist, collected folk tales for his book Kanteletar — the younger sister of the great epic Kalevala.

Another curious exhibit on the church grounds is a wooden, genderless human figure enclosed in a pattern of likes and dislikes, staring at a smartphone. The "New Wheel of Samsara" — a true symbol of the modern Earth's population. And the most important in the Lahdenpohja church are the sights of the City of Angels. There are few sculptures, but each one is imbued by the sculptor with soul and deep meaning.


The City of Angels Museum arose in the ruins of the church in 2019. Thanks to it, the church gained a second wind — the exhibition attracted attention to the site, and restoration even began. The exhibition consists of many wooden angel sculptures in the most unusual forms. All sculptures were made by the best European and Russian masters. The church itself is shaped like a cross, so the interior space seems huge. The absence of a roof adds to the atmosphere.

The City of Angels Museum in Lahdenpohja is the result of the unique international festival "Between Heaven and Earth." In the 2019 competition, the best woodcarvers gathered — for a week they worked on their masterpieces right in the ruins of the church. The church itself became the main theme for the creation of artworks.

Both individual masters and teams participated in the festival. The raw material was thick logs about 60 cm in diameter. The resulting creations were installed both outside and inside. In the "Humanity" category, the individual master Lev Bryukhanov won with the wonderful sculpture "Mother's Hands." Among team works, the composition "Heavenly Harvest" won.

New exhibits periodically appear in the church and the City of Angels. In February 2021, a small colored girl-angel was installed here. The angel holds a staff topped with the Bethlehem star. It is promised that the star will soon light up — a special lamp will be embedded in it. The author of the sculpture is Dmitry Kolesnikov from Sergiev Posad, who previously created the "Guardian Angel" figure for the museum. For the new project, a place was chosen near the altar part of the church.

At first glance, the City of Angels in Karelia is a simple museum on a religious theme. But once you enter the ruins under the open sky, you seem to immerse yourself in a magical atmosphere: it feels like the figures are watching you from all sides. During the day, unusual music plays here, and in the evening, dim lights are lit, giving this little world even more mystery. Next to each creation are amazing stories filled with love, hope, and despair.

At the entrance to the Lahdenpohja church museum "City of Angels," guests are greeted by a small angel with a lantern inside which stars glow. Next comes the composition "Heavenly Harvest" of four figures. The angel-secretary from the Order Bureau accepts notes with wishes from childless couples, the next angel grows babies in cabbage. Another is engaged in "harvesting." Above them hovers a stork ready to immediately deliver the newborn to its destination. By the way, you can leave notes with any wishes with the "secretary."

The next sculpture in the City of Angels in Lahdenpohja is "Mother's Hands." A baby trying to launch a paper airplane into the sky is supported from behind by mother's hands-wings — always ready to help, save, protect…

The wings of the "Angel of the Present Church" are organ pipes that sound from the breath of the wind. Nearby lies a percussion instrument so visitors can help the renewed church sing again, at full strength. There is also the "Angel of the Future Church" — with a real harp in its hands and a plectrum so everyone can find their life string.

"Everyone needs love" — even a big cat embraced by a small angel figure. And the guests of the almost forgotten church also need care and hugs. They will surely be covered by angels with huge wings and an angel-mother with a baby in her arms, whose love is enough for the whole world.

Sources:

https://season-travel.com/blog/kirha-yakkima-v-karelii-v-rajone-lahdenpohya/

https://dzen.ru/a/YL9ONFutLSEMFM60

https://sorola.ru/neighborhood/muzey-gorod-angelov-v-kirkhe-yakkima/

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