Stories of Sennaya Square – a place with a tragic and criminal past

Spasskaya, Saint Petersburg, Russia

Sennaya Square is a square in the center of Saint Petersburg, located at the intersection of Moskovsky Prospekt and Sadovaya Street. Since August 20, 1739, it was called Bolshaya Square. In the 18th century, the extensive territory of the square (stretching to the Fontanka River) was divided into separate sections, named after the goods sold there: Konnaya Square — near Grivtsov Lane; Sennaya Square — near Obukhovsky Bridge; Sennaya and Drovyanaya Square. Starting from 1764, the name Sennaya Square spread to the entire square. On December 15, 1952, the square was renamed Peace Square, and on July 1, 1992, its former name was restored.

Sennaya Square emerged in 1738–1739 when the authorities decided to lay out the Saar Perspective (now Moskovsky Prospekt), establishing a connection with Moscow. The intersection with Sadovaya Street became Sennaya Square. Initially, it was a vast wasteland but strategically important for organizing trade as the crossing of two main roads leading to Europe and Moscow. This wasteland was adapted for wholesale hay warehouses, hence the name Sennaya Square. The first architectural dominant of the square was the Assumption Church, built with funds from merchants trading at Sennaya. Between 1753 and 1765, a significant late Baroque monument was erected on Sennaya Square — the Assumption Church (Spas na Sennoy).


Under Catherine II, the canals and rivers near Sennaya were reinforced, allowing for denser construction around the square. The Empress allowed free trade on the territory, supporting the formation of a "people’s market" for the poor population, believing it would help combat resellers.

Between 1753 and 1765, a significant late Baroque monument was erected on Sennaya Square — the Assumption Church (Spas na Sennoy). A separate building — the Guardhouse (house No. 37 on Sadovaya Street) — was built in 1818–1820 by architect V. I. Beretti based on a design by architect Luigi Rusca with some modifications. Rusca himself left St. Petersburg for his homeland in April 1818. This is a federal architectural monument.

1774 is considered the unofficial birth year of the Sennoy Market. Initially, the square occupied a vast area stretching to the Fontanka River. By the early 19th century, the square’s territory had shrunk to its current size. In the early 19th century, as part of a large-scale improvement of St. Petersburg, the entire perimeter of Sennaya Square was reconstructed according to a project by Vikentiy Beretti. At that time, the second architectural dominant — the guardhouse — was built to restore the square’s symmetry, disrupted by the church.

In June 1831, a massive spontaneous popular uprising occurred here — the cholera riot, when an enraged crowd staged a pogrom and killings at the cholera hospital. From the mid-19th century, Sennaya began to be mentioned as one of the most dangerous and disreputable places in St. Petersburg, especially the adjoining Vyazemskaya Lavra market (link) and the Malinnik brothel (link). Contemporaries described Sennaya as a "hotbed of evil." City authorities made many attempts to restore order at Sennaya. Along the square were taverns, inns, pubs, shelters, and brothels. The nature of trade also changed since the city limits expanded, and Sennaya was no longer near poor peasant districts; trade from carts was replaced by reselling. Sennaya Square gradually fell into a disgraceful state. After a major fire on its territory, city authorities planned a full or partial reconstruction of the square. However, it was decided to build four market pavilions on its territory.


The first pavilion sold meat, the second fish, the third vegetables and fruits, and the fourth baskets, tubs, brushes, and barrels. The square was covered with a layer of dirt and horse manure, creating a strong stench. Beggars scurried around Sennaya, asking for alms. On holidays, it was difficult to pass through the crowd on the square. Public punishments of fraudsters and thieves were carried out near the guardhouse. Nevertheless, Sennaya was an important part of the city’s trade economy. For example, buildings on the plot between the modern Moskovsky Prospekt, Yefimova Street, and the Fontanka River embankment were called Vyazemskaya Lavra and were among the most terrible slums in the city. The life and morals of the inhabitants of the district around Sennaya were repeatedly described by writers such as Dostoevsky (novel "Crime and Punishment") and Krestovsky (novel "St. Petersburg Slums"). Until the mid-19th century, people caught in robbery, theft, and fraud at Sennaya Square were subjected to public corporal punishments ("trade executions") — described by Nekrasov.

"Yesterday, around six o’clock,

I went to Sennaya;

There they were whipping a woman,

A young peasant woman."

Nikolay Nekrasov in 1848 described a scene of a woman being whipped at Sennaya Square — although whips were officially abolished in 1845, they could be replaced by rods and switches. Public punishments were rare and applied only for serious crimes — theft or murder. In the 18th century, a written permit from the landowner was enough to punish peasants.

By analogy with the "belly of Paris," it is called the "belly of Petersburg." Vsevolod Krestovsky in "St. Petersburg Slums" left a vivid description of this dreadful place — "Along the edges of the square, in huge, multi-story, no less dirty than the street houses, lights flickered in the windows, and lanterns above the entrance doors indicated whole rows of taverns, inns, eateries, snack cellars, wine cellars, pubs, with porter houses and those special shelters where all rejected depravity is molded, hidden, sickened, and dies, from which there is almost no return to a cleaner sphere and where only two outcomes are known — prison and cemetery."

At the end of the 18th century, under Paul I, the first wooden building of the Guardhouse — a military guard and prison — appeared here. By the 1820s, the building was rebuilt in stone, and it was precisely opposite it that public corporal punishments took place — whippings and rods were a common spectacle. Today, this Guardhouse building (house No. 37 on Sadovaya Street) is a separate building on the square, built in 1818–1820 by architect V. I. Beretti based on a design by Luigi Rusca with some modifications. Administrative offenders were also held in this building — among them was Fyodor Dostoevsky, who spent several days here. Rusca himself left St. Petersburg for his homeland in April 1818.

Between 1883 and 1886, the now-lost buildings of the Sennoy Market were built in the center of the square according to the project of architect I. S. Kitner and engineers G. von Pauker and O. E. Krel.

Under Soviet rule, Sennaya was renamed Peace Square and was conceived as a link between the city’s historic center and the new socialist Leningrad. From the 1930s to the 1960s, the square underwent reconstruction and was beautified; the market pavilions were demolished. In 1961, as part of Khrushchev’s anti-religious campaign, the Assumption Church was demolished. On the site of the destroyed church, the vestibule of the metro station was built. The authorities almost immediately recognized the mistake of their decision, proposing a plan to reconstruct the church as early as 1967; fruitless discussions about restoring the temple continued for the following decades. In the second half of the 20th century, Sennaya again began to decline, with fences and construction structures of new metro line vestibules decorating the square for several decades, and several buildings were demolished due to their emergency condition. In the 1990s, after the collapse of the USSR, a chaotic street market appeared on Sennaya’s territory, where impoverished city residents from all over came to sell their valuables to make a living. In fact, the square turned into a street market and one of the most disreputable and dangerous places in the city, as before the revolution.

In 1907, one of the first tram lines passed through Sennaya Square (from 2007 to 2013, traffic was suspended).

In the 1920s, the slums, dens, and pubs surrounding the square were demolished.

In the 1930s, reconstruction was carried out — the buildings of the Sennoy Market were demolished, and the area was asphalted and landscaped.

During the Siege of Leningrad, many buildings on the square were destroyed or damaged.

In 1950, the facades on the northern side of the square received a unified Soviet-style design.

In 1952, Sennaya Square was renamed Peace Square.

In 1961, the Spas-na-Sennoy Cathedral was blown up on the square.

In 1963, an above-ground vestibule of the "Ploshchad Mira" metro station was built on the square. The intercity bus station No. 1 was located at Peace Square.

In 1991, due to the construction of the "Sadovaya" metro station under Peace Square, an underground passage was arranged. In the same year, the square’s original name was restored, and in July 1992, the metro station "Ploshchad Mira" was renamed "Sennaya Ploshchad." A spontaneous market and many trading kiosks reappeared on the square.

In 1999, the canopy of the "Sennaya Ploshchad" metro station pavilion collapsed. Seven people died. (more here https://reveal.world/ru/story/rossiya-avarii-i-tehnogennye-katastrofy/tragediya-na-sennoj)

In 2003, the square was reconstructed; trading pavilions were built, and a chapel was erected in memory of the demolished Assumption Church. At the same time, the Tower of Peace was installed on the square, designed by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte and sculptor Clara Halter. This tower is a gift from France for the 300th anniversary of St. Petersburg. The tower is a stele with transparent semicircular panels on both sides bearing the word "peace" in 50 languages. Wilmotte and Halter are also the authors of a similar Wall of Peace (Mur pour la Paix) on the Champ de Mars in Paris.

During the anomalous heatwave in summer 2010, the Tower of Peace cracked and was dismantled. Governor Valentina Matviyenko stated that in just seven years, the monument had fallen into disrepair and would not return to the square, as "city authorities are preparing a project to reconstruct the square, aiming to restore its original appearance; numerous trading pavilions will also be dismantled."

Since 2011, there have been plans to restore the blown-up cathedral, but active construction has not begun. Between 2011 and 2013, an above-ground vestibule of the "Spasskaya" station, opened in 2009 but previously without its own exit, was built. In connection with this, in 2011, the trading pavilion in front of the future "Spasskaya" vestibule was dismantled. In September 2016, the final dismantling of trading pavilions on the square began.

Sources:

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sennaya_Square_(Saint_Petersburg)

https://sharapov-m.livejournal.com/3614.html

https://dzen.ru/a/ZViUb6Zw2Ae3Oasf



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Stories of Sennaya Square – "Malinnik in Petersburg," or where the criminal slang word "malina" originated.

Sennaya Square, 5, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190031

Malinnik was a building that existed in the 19th and early 20th centuries in Saint Petersburg, housing a tavern and brothels. It was located at building No. 5 (modern address; the postal address in the 19th century was Sennaya Square, building No. 3). City authorities made several attempts to close the establishment, but after mass raids, the venues in the building would reopen and continue operating. The brothels were eliminated after the October Revolution. The building survived during the Soviet era and was later significantly rebuilt and extended by two floors, becoming part of a residential complex in the Stalinist neoclassical style.

Stories of Sennaya Square: The Cholera Riot in Petersburg

Brinko Lane, 4, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190068

Unrest among townspeople during the cholera epidemic of 1830–1831. Causes — dissatisfaction with the government-imposed travel bans (quarantines and armed cordons) and rumors that doctors and officials were deliberately poisoning the common people, that the police were burying people alive. Succumbing to panic, "agitated crowds smashed police stations and state hospitals, killed officials, officers, and noble landlords."

The story of how trams used to pass through the house

Ligovsky Ave., 50, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191036

A well-known building through which a tram used to pass. If you didn't know, you would never guess.

KV-85 - the last tank of this series

pr. Stachek, 108A, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 198207

On a granite pedestal stands a KV-85 tank, produced by the Chelyabinsk Kirov Plant during the Great Patriotic War. Behind it is a preserved pillbox with the inscription 1941–1945. This is one of two known surviving examples of this model. Another tank, representing a KV-1s with an 85mm gun in a standard turret, is located in Kubinka.

The Morozov Treasure in the Leningrad Gostiny Dvor

Nevsky Ave., 35, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191023

On October 26, 1965, an amazing event took place in Leningrad... On that day, in room No. 87 at the corner of Sadovaya and Lomonosovskaya lines of the Gostiny Dvor, builders from the 33rd Directorate of the Repair Trust of Glavleningradstroy were working: Nadezhda Biryukova and Sofya Komova. They dismantled a transverse wall that separated two rooms and began leveling the floor, preparing it for concrete pouring. Near a tiled stove, they discovered 8 non-standard, unusually heavy bricks. One of the workers had the idea to clean the heavy brick from dirt, and it turned out that under the bricks were hidden 8 gold bars, each weighing 16 kg. The total weight amounted to 128 kg. The workers received the due material reward from the state.

The house where the history of the Romanov dynasty ended

12 Millionnaya St., Saint Petersburg, Russia, 191186

The apartment in house No. 12 on Millionnaya Street belonged to Prince Pavel Pavlovich Putyatin. On March 3, 1917, a meeting took place there that influenced the fate of the monarchy in Russia. Grand Duke Mikhail Alexandrovich and a delegation of politicians, including Milyukov, Guchkov, Nabokov (father of the writer V. V. Nabokov), Rodzyanko (chairman of the State Duma), Kerensky, Shulgin, Prince Lvov (the first head of the Provisional Government), and others, held negotiations here. The reason for this meeting was Nicholas II's abdication of the throne in favor of his brother Mikhail.

The Legend of the Bobrinsky Family Treasure or the Treasures of Catherine II

Galernaya St., 60, Saint Petersburg, Russia, 190000

1930. The OGPU receives a strange letter from abroad. Someone named Bobrinsky offers to provide the Soviet government with information about the location of a family treasure. In exchange, he wants to receive half of its value! The tempting letter is immediately put under investigation, especially since it concerns the descendants of Alexei Bobrinsky – the illegitimate son of Catherine II and Grigory Orlov. Surely, caring for the future of her child, the crowned mother provided him with a rich dowry. But where? In the Bobrinsky palace in St. Petersburg, gifted to the founder of the family in 1797? Or in the Bogoroditsk estate near Tula, built specifically for Alexei Bobrinsky? Or maybe, by the time the letter was received, there were no treasures of the empress left at all? After all, unlike his descendants, Alexei Bobrinsky himself was known as a reckless bon vivant and spendthrift.